The Fall Bright Tavern
The Fall Bright Tavern is a Bloorcourt restaurant with a humble exterior that might, at first, slip your eye.
However, the restaurant and its simple menu come from some not-so-unassuming local hospitality industry minds.
The charming tavern delicately skirted around the typical hype that new restaurants try to get on social media, and instead had a gentle introduction to the city's food scene.
In an "if you know, you know" fashion, The Fall Bright Tavern's opening garnered whispered buzz this December among those either working in or still in touch with friends in Toronto's close-knit restaurant industry.
Their ability to gain traction within a crowd of their peers is all thanks to co-owners Joe Rutherford and Brett Healey's impressive work history.
"Brett is a graduate of the Stratford Chef School and made his start washing dishes/cooking and learning at The Old Prune," Joe tells us with pride about his now-business partner.
Following this, Chef Brett later held front of house positions most notably at Momofuku's Shoto and Edulis — the latter often credited as one of Canada's best restaurants.The menu is remarkably approachable, despite the owners' fine dining backgrounds, with an abundance of easy crowd-pleasers.
Changing frequently to "keep the kitchen engaged and caring," The Fall Bright's menu runs on a common theme Joe found when eating Brett's cooking: great comfort food, prepared really well.
Think: a warm potato and gruyere cheese puff pie ($15) in a bed of familiar ranch dressing, or a simple, no-frills roasted cauliflower sprinkled with pistachios ($16).
Though the menu's minimalistic descriptions leave much up to the imagination, it's nice to find that the dishes are uncomplicated and unpretentious — "just a well portioned, tasty dinner," in Joe's words.
As expected, the smaller starting plates on the menu are easily shareable. Classic main ingredients you would often find as an appetizer, like olives or mushrooms, are the stars of the show.
But with The Fall Bright's menu, these classic stars are given playful, flavourful twists you wouldn't necessarily anticipate.
Bittersweet lemon peel tampers down the assertiveness of preserved mushrooms and eggplants, and the dish has a much less earthy taste than you would typically get with such ingredients.
A roulette-style game could be played with the stuffed olives, with their interiors ranging from blue cheese, anchovies, preserved lemon, or hot peppers — good luck guessing which one you're about to bite into.
A surprising standout for the table is the Escarole Lettuce ($16), which arrives as a seemingly unassuming plate of leafy greens.
However, the addition of nutty kabocha squash and anise-like fennel bring a stunning bright sweetness to the dish, unlike any common salad.
Those looking to view a well-curated drink menu are in luck as well.
For something traditional and easy, the Preserved Lemon Vesper ($19) — made with gin, vodka, and Lillet — is a crisp, clean martini that finishes with a slight floral note.
For something a bit more playful, you can't go wrong with the caramelly and fresh Switchel Milk Punch ($19) — consisting of rum, ginger, and molasses — or the intensely sharp and vibrant Hemingway Daiquiri ($19) — rum, maraschino, orange and lime.The Fall Bright Tavern's aim to supply great comfort food is perfectly executed in their main dishes, such as their Confit Duck Leg ($36).
The gamey, savoury meat comes piping hot and coated in a crispy skin, and pairs perfectly with acidic apple cider cabbage and sweet, starchy turnip cake.
This dish seems to have an unplanned yet fortuitous blend of Eastern European and Chinese flavours and ingredients. It's not a combination you would expect, but it's certainly a successful one.
Desserts are no exception to honouring the restaurant's goal of providing a hearty, satisfying plate.
Cake and pie by the slice will be available every day with the flavours on rotation. A decadent, textbook chocolate cake ($18) is served with a tangy, velvety creme diplomat. The slightly tart cream is a welcomed addition that cuts through a deep, chocolatey mouthful.
For something a bit edgier, a hefty wedge of St. Bridge's six-year-old cheddar cheese is paired with their traditional and homey apple pie slice ($18).
Often incorporated as just an ingredient in the pie crust, having the full cheese wedge on the plate here allows this dish to cater perfectly to anyone with a minimal sweet tooth.
Despite the frigid temperature outside, the nostalgic sundae ($18) was a pleasant treat at the table. Rich sour cream ice cream marries perfectly with bright lemon curd and crunchy sweet meringues.
It's a dessert menu that could please anyone, from the pickiest kid to the most old-school grandparent.
On the note of unpretentiousness, The Fall Bright Tavern's room is an excellent example of a restaurant challenging Toronto's ideas and needs for dining enjoyment.
We've all fallen prey to lusting over social media videos of grandiose murals and lux booths to sit in, but there's something to be said for a restaurant that owns its modest interior.
"[We] had a very tiny budget to get rolling with, so our priorities went into sourcing the best ingredients to support the menu," Joe tells us — bringing light to why the restaurant, as of yet, has no signage aside from a piece of paper charmingly taped to the front door.
Filling the incredibly cozy restaurant are classic tavern-like nods, such as dark wood accents adding to the spaces' visual richness. An open kitchen in the back is a bright beam in the moody room.
Adorning the walls are dozens of vintage mirrors, making the quaint space feel grander.
"[The mirrors] support the feeling that everything one needs to have the most lovely time is right there at the table with them," says Joe. "When our guests look up and around our space, they see the joy of dining with loved ones reflected back."
Though their opening was soft, The Fall Bright Tavern's success has been a heavy hitter.
Fans of the new spot can look forward to not only their menu changing regularly, but the back patio Chef Brett and Joe plan to open in the summer — featuring an edible garden of their own ingredients.
The Fall Bright Tavern is located at 840 Bloor St. West.
Fareen Karim