Enzo Pizza Bar owner Ryan Menchella opened this new shop on Queen West as an extension of the family businesses he grew up around. He has family in Woodbridge making pizza dough for him daily, and, attributes his own start to spending summers working at a pizzeria 45 minutes outside of Rome.

Like the nearby North of Brooklyn Pizzeria , the service style here is fast casual, almost café-like which I appreciate since I'm not really about making a pizza dinner into a two-hour event. The decor employs the trendy formula of exposed brick, weathered wood tables and industrial chairs that's happening everywhere, but the resulting atmosphere here feels fresh and relaxed.

Ordering takes place at the counter, but there are no glowing pre-cooked slices to be seen. Solo-sized pizzas are made to order and are available in traditional Neapolitan styles like Margherita ($8) and Bianca ($8) or can be customized per personal preference.

Pizzas are cooked in an electric oven guaranteeing high temperatures, three minute cooking time and consistent result. When I ask why not a wood oven? Menchella shrugs and says "this is like the one we use in Italy." While I know the authenticity police will tell you Naples pizza must be made in a wood burning oven, I don't care for pizza that take itself too seriously and judging by the delicious invention that comes next, neither does this place.

It's not listed on any menu, but I'm prompted to try the Pizza Americano ($13) and am rewarded with the first secret menu item to launch. Topped with lean ground beef, American cheese cheddar cheese (I stand corrected), lettuce, pickles and Enzo sauce, it is essentially, wait for it... a Big Mac pizza. They'll even deliver to those who live in a four block radius, on a Vespa no less (sometimes a Fiat).

Enzo Pizza Bar is still awaiting a liquor license, but once it comes through the intent is to offer local and Italian beers. There is also talk of adding a build-your-own panini menu and offering house-baked cannolis and espressos.

Currently the eatery is open most nights until midnight but might soon see the hours stretch to 3am on weekends.

Photos by Morris Lum