Restaurants
Caplansky's Deli
Y'know you're doing something right when you're being called the messiah of smoked meat, your fare's got a fan club with Geddy Lee in it, and it's so popular it's spawned its very own backlash! But fuck, people, it's only a sandwich...
Purists kvetch at the mere mention of Caplansky's in the same sanctified breathe as the
Sinai of smoked meat--Schwartz's in
In spades.
Zane Caplansky is a mensch. Talking to him is like getting into a warm bath: you always come out slightly dizzy but with a sense of wellbeing that carries you through the day. Charming to a fault
this youthful 40 year-old works the room like the seasoned restaurant veteran that he is; his jovial presence affable demeanor, somewhere between Jackie Mason and Jerry Seinfield, is one of the other reasons for hitting this stealthy little spot on a side street in Italia Minor. After a little chat with him you begin to notice how aware he is about history -- his own, deli culture, the neighbourhood -- and how passionate he is about preserving it, admitting that if he ever outgrows the Monarch, he hopes to open a little deli outpost on Nassau near the spot where his granddad used to run a butcher shop and bring a little Jewish back to a neigbourhood still known in many circles as the Jewish Market.
Climbing the stairs to the Monarch's second floor is a great build-up to your meal as you're spit out of the dark staircase into a simulated '70's legion hall interior, the ambience not unlike a children's drawing: full of cartoon menace and oozing primary coloured chaos that ultimately reveals an innocence and playful juxtaposing of elements enough to make even the hardest hearts flicker with delight. This vibe is often derided by more grown-up elements that've forgotten the power of magic words but you get the sense on any visit that lost boys would be waxing esoteric with blue-haired bubbies next to the xxx crumb-inspired '70's pinball machine while discovering the dirty on how to make a fool-proof chicken soup that'll cure asian bird flu (the tetra-granny-ton) all presided over by Zane's clown princing. The only thing missing is dogs playing poker at one of the corner tables. Jaime Kennedy once stopped in for a bite, congratulating Zane on the fact that in the Monarch he's got a ready-made cool-factor that usually costs restaurateurs thousands in fees to fellas usually named Yabu or Pushelberg.
So how's the food then?
You mean you haven't tried?
The sandwich ($7) is a meaty interface of pure, oldschool un-diluted joy (despite what the haters'll tell ya). Fresh, chewy Silverstein's rye groans
under the weight of 7 juicy, heart-stopping ounces of succulent, smoky, hand-carved brisket (ordering the meat "fatty" is the only way to eat this bad boy... if you're worried about the waistline,
remember you walked up stairs to get here). It doesn't taste like Schwartz's (which should in no way detract from how fine a smoked meat specimen this is); it has more in common with the brisket at Phil's Original BBQ than
The fries ($4) are perfectly crispy, without a hint of grease and salty enough to stand up to the aggressively flavoured sandwich. They're even better
smothered in the thick, beef-flecked gravy and squeaky cheese curds available in the poutine 'upgrade' ($6). You'll struggle to finish an entire serving along with a sandwich--it doesn't mean you won't try though.
The knish ($5) is has gravy laced flaky pastry stuffed with much spicy chopped beef bits from the smoker mixed with chunky potatoes; an homage to corned beef hash that would definitely be kosher, or at least not out of place next to some over easy eggs for breakfast.
The borscht is a wonderfully ruby sweet and sour broth and the split pea is hearty stick to the ribs soup is the perfect antidote to winter (both $4).
Keep an eye open this summer as Zane promises to extend his hours in honour of the coming patio season offering the beer-soaked College Street masses a chance to hit their culinary g-spot with a tasty late-night bite.
I asked Zane a little about his inspiration and plans and...well...never one to shy away from a chat, here's what he had to say:
What's your favourite TO deli?
Switzer's
Do you have a regular order when you're there?
corned beef, fries, cream soda
Describe a formative food experience, one that made you realize that food was something more than just sustenance.
One experience? Hmmm... In her early '70s, my Nana baked and froze a dozen little blueberry pies. She then packed them into her luggage and brought them to me in London, England. She knew how much I loved her blueberry pie and I knew how much she loved me.
Does it bother you when people compare your smoked meat sandwich to Schwartz's?
No.
Is there such a thing as too much smoked meat?
How could there be? Its like saying "too much love". Pish tosh.
Which Iron Chef would you challenge to battle smoked meat and why?
I really think my product is special so it doesn't matter who I'm up against. In a Deli Battle, I'd take Bobby Flay because he's so darned good. I'm sure I'd learn a lot from him.
Why is deli culture important?
That's like asking "why is breathing important". Food is the soul, the mortar of life. Jewish life and and non-Jewish alike. We all have to eat. But Deli is Jewish comfort food. It makes us feel safe and warm and loved.
Who would you like to play you in the film adaptation of your autobiography?
Johnny Depp. LOL.
Who would play your sandwich?
Steve Martin only because I'm mad that he did the Pink Panther and Cheaper by the Dozen Movies.
What would you eat for your last meal on Earth?
I'd start with my mother's chopped liver, followed by my Bubbie's chicken soup with matzoh balls (with sailboats and eggies). my father's Caesar salad, maybe a piece of knish with caraway rye for the gravy (my gravy) and then my own version of the Schwartz's Combo: rib steak char-grilled rare, point cut of my smoked meat, my braised bbq brisket and a few pork ribs. For desert? Nana's blueberry pie and ice cream (vanilla) and some of Catherine's cheesecake.
Photos courtesy Alex Vickers
Discussion
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Best everything actually, they have a flawless menu, and great service.
Please tell me, anyone, where to get a good CB on actual rye bread for less than the $20-plus charged by the 2d Avenue Deli at its new spot in the thirties.
BTW, what is the state of Jewish dairy restaurants in Toronto? I had a memorable plate of boiled potato pirogen in a Montreal restaurant when I attended Expo '68, but that has been my only visit to Canada. But I'd go to Caplinsky's or Yitz's in a eye blink.
I miss Schwartz's...
The best smoked meat/corned beef sandwich I ever had was at Toronto Hadassah-WIZO Bazaar... Moist, generous, and fantastic with the pickles...
even druxy's blows this place out of the water.
- Dry meat. Smoked meat is steamed to heat it up, so it must have been left under a heat lamp.
- Grey meat. It was probably overheated / cooked by the heat lamp.
- Mediocre fries. They were not salted while still hot with fat. Come on people, this kind of JV mistake shouldn't happen.
- Poutine. Poutine with smoked meat is poutine italienne. This should be identified as such. The gravy-to-smoked meat ratio was also too low, so it lacked the necessary graviness.
- Where was my pickle? I ordered a pickle and got a sliver of pickle. Caplansky's isn't cheap, so they should spend the extra 25 cents and give me the whole damned pickle. Additionally, the pickle lacked crispness. Probably cut and left out too long.
All in all, 1/5 stars. This was a very disappointing experience. They should take a trip out to Montreal, take notes, and fix this operation before they lose all the good press they gained from BlogTO.
Do not go here, go to Pancers or even Katz's.
After paying $38 (sandwich, fries, small container of gravy and we bought one jar of mustard for $9) we threw most of it in the garbage. Meat was TERRIBLE, and fries were below average. The container of gravy tasted like the meat so it rendered the fries inedible. The "homemade" mustard was chemical tasting and waxy - it's now in the garbage.
I was so excited to hear that Toronto had a place that had good smoked meat - I was wrong. I will never go back. 1/2 star (if even). Even the pickle was disappointing.
Service = awkward and terrible (After finally figuring out who to order from and actually getting their attention, I asked to eat in house and was given my food in a bag to go, with take-out mustard - not impressed).
Smoked Meat = dry and cold (flavor was OK, but not equal to the hype. This I could live with if it was warm and moist, like smoked meat should be served).
Pickle = soggy and flavorless.
Overall experience:
Caplansy's = Overrated and not worth it.
I feel like calling Schwartz's and apologizing for having blasphemed!
Compare to Schwartz's ? First off, Schwartz's has been in business for what, 80 years or something? Caplansky's started out last summer. Give the guy some time to adjust and tweak.
As a native Montreal who has spend lots of time at Schwartz's and Ben's, Caplansky's flavor far outdoes those bland Montreal sandwiches.
Sure, it's in a tavern for now. Get over it. It means great cheap beer. It's a matter of time before Zane get's his own place. Give him time. It's been hit and miss on a few occasions for me as well. Am I ready to throw the place out? No.
So all you haters can take a 6 hour drive for "real" smoked meat in Montreal, or your clueless ones can go eat Lester's smoked meat at Corned Beef House or Druxy's.
Some of us appreciated craft food.
Thank you Zane
service - not good at all, why do they need one server for food and one for beers? weird.
the sandwich - not bad, and i'd be willing to give Caplansky's a try again based on this alone... but absolutely no comparison to Schwartz's!
we got a quarter of a pickle and the coleslaw was absolutely rank!! one mouthful was enough, embarrassing that they would serve something like that. fries weren't anything special either.
Overall experience = C
after hearing so much about this place, I have to say I was a tad disappointed. I'll give it another go on a busy wknd afternoon... hopefully, it'll be a better experience next time!
Caplansky's is better. Done.
To all those who complain of the meat being dry -- did you get the fatty cut? 'Cause it's pretty moist every time I have it.
The service has always been fast and friendly on my visits. As for why they have two servers (one for the bar, one for the food), it's because Caplansky's operates in the Monarch but the Monarch doesn't own Caplansky's. He's just renting space in there. Don't like it? Go to the Pickle Barrel.
Remember, everything is hand-made here and the quality will vary with every batch. If you want the same thing every time, go to delis where the meat is injected with chemicals to give it that smoky taste, then painted black to make it look like it's actually been smoked; where the environment is cold and sterile with nothing offensive on TV. Enjoy!
To quote "If its not hot enough, not fatty enough or too fatty we will replace any sandwich. If you hated it and didn’t say anything so you could go home and write that it sucked and people shouldn’t go, what can I do?"
Well said.
and quit it with the schwartz's comparison! this isn't fucking montreal. yes, schwartz's is fucking awesome. but you can't have it. so cut it out!
My only complaint is with the coleslaw; hardly any taste and no zip.
what on earth do you mean? AFAIK Corned Beef house uses fresh brisket, I've seen them cut it fresh.
PS Centre St Deli was voted no 2 best in T.O. for Smoked Meat Sandwiches, right after Caplansky.
i suspect you made yourself known as such and resultantly got extra special treatments and extra special cuts of smoked meat, the way you rave about this spot. since it opened last summer, i've given it THREE (count 'em, THREE) chances to prove itself (i wont say himself, that sounds personal), and each time my sandwich was not good. not sparse in quantity, but FAR from juicy on all occasions, my dining partners and i were unanimous. caplansky's is about 80% hype, and although i wish we had more places downtown that did smoked meat properly, i'll go to zupa's or yitz's all the hell the way uptown before going to the monarch again - for anything but beer and a hot california sandwich.
ALSO - smug mr. caplansky says he's happy to give you another sandwich, but i tried this on my last visit - and he was NOT HAPPY to do so. i consider myself a passionate eater, and a grand lover of sandwiches, but if this were to be put beside a shwartz's pile - there would be a joke. and im also very pro-toronto, so it pains me slightly to say.
and to JEFF: people are entitled to their opinion when they feel ripped off by an establishment; and ten people will read the overly glowing review before one reads what average people thought in the comments. ultimately, good restaurants are good because they're consistent - and this place is definitely not that. so don't shvitz over poor little zaney's feelings. who 2publicly rebuts critics?! no serious cook - that is on some brock sheppard (of the former azul) embarassing type shit.
There's great hype about this place and it is inconsistent at best - unfortunately those who dare say they didn't enjoy their meal are often shouted down on the boards and told their opinions are uninformed.
First time i thought "I don't know what the big deal is..."
It had great mouth feel, but that was about all.
The second time, my fiancee said, "I don't know what the bid deal is..."
When in Montreal, we skip Schwartz's.
When in Toronto, i make a v-line to Caplansky's. My only disappointment was the pea soup. Othewise, everything on the menu was excellent - especially the knish.
The Schwartz lovers are like the emperor sans clothes....
The Caplansky haters (and Monarch haters) just want something to whine about. Perhaps they should wonder why every Toronto publication is tripping over the accolades thrown Zane's way. Tongue, meet tastebuds.
The smoked meat sandwich was heavenly! Instead of the fries (that come with the combo), I ordered the Borscht soup, which was a big mistake. Too sour and salty for my taste. Added to that, the combo is served with another sour dish: a big plate of slaw. After my meal, my stomach was churning in acid. I could feel it.
Next time, I'll just order the sandwich and fries. Much better mix.
Caplansky's at Brunswick and Bloor. You heard it here first. Who's excited?
I read Caplansky's explanation of why the meat was bad around the time that I first tried it, which motivated me to give it a second chance. I tried it a couple weeks ago for the second time. Not only was it a completely different experience, it was honestly better than Schwartz's. Seriously: the best smoked meat sandwich I have ever had, period.
In fact, I have never waited so long to get a sandwich, as I did at Caplansky's and by the time I got it, the person I was eating with was already finished their meal (brisket). There were hardly any people in the restaurant on top of it all. Just because I'm eating a matzah ball soup doesn't mean my sandwich shouldn't come at the same time or at least shortly after. Even the pickles lacked freshness and sliced thinly like i've never seen at a deli. Finally, it was completely overpriced and felt ripped off. Do yourself a favour and stick with Yitz's, Pancer's, Centre Street and the New Yorker. There is no deli feel to Caplansky's --- not sure where the flawed reviews came from. I really hope Caplansky's could improve, as Downtown needs the deli revived!
I went there with some friends for lunch today. I got the chopped liver sandwich on challah with a side order of latkes. For seven dollars, the sandwich was rather small and plain, and four tiny latkes for four dollars is kind of ridiculous. (My friend got fries with his sandwich, and I'd say they were worth their price.) The latkes themselves were all right, and the apple sauce they came with was pretty good -- there just wasn't enough latke to go with it. I was disappointed with the sandwich. The liver was okay, but the bread was very dry -- almost stale. My friends were reasonably satisfied with their orders, but all agreed that it wasn't worth the price (especially given the other places in the area). The service was okay, though they forgot our side orders at first. I kind of understand that, it was very busy.
I don't see myself going back.
VERY BLAND AND DISAPPOINTING FOOD.
THE PORTIONS WERE SMALL FOR A DELI,NOT GOOD VALUE?
THE MATZAH BALL WAS ALMOST BIG ENOUGH TO SEE.....I GUESS IF THE BOWL IS SMALL IT ALMOST LOOKS NORMAL!THE FRIES WERE DELICIOUS,EVEN THOUGH THEY ARRIVED 10 MINUTES BEFORE THE SANDWICH?THE SMOKED MEAT HAD VERY LITTLE FLAVOUR AND WAS A BIT DRY AND CHEWY.
ALL THE PIES WERE SOLD OUT FROM THE NIGHT BEFORE,AND I BET THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN ONE OF THE BEST ITEMS!
AT LEAST THE SERVICE WAS GREAT!
OVERALL...... I GUESS IT WAS ALL HYPE? I WON'T BE GOING BACK.
1) Sandwich came out looking meagre at best... I counted 6 (yes, SIX) tiny slices of 'Smoked Meat', mixed in with some shreaded bits probably scrapped off the cutting board (why am I always being given the bits?)... Sad...
2) This WAS the SALTEST (and chewiest) sandwich of ANY kind I have ever eaten in my life, no exception... When the waiter came back and asked me how I liked my sandwich, and I told him I didn't, he retorted, "Hmmm, I'm surprised cuz everyone who tries it likes it!' (Guess he hasn't seen this comment section!)... I then informed him of the meat's saltness, and he suggested I cut the salt down with mustard... Sorry, but if the sandwich was any good, then you wouldn't have to cut it with anything (except with a knife to share the goodness with a friend)...
3) Coleslaw was a soggy and stale mess served in undersized custard bowl...
I think Zane should really look into the consistency of his restaurants before he decides to open a new one (or decides to deride anymore of his unsatisfied patrons)... As for the remainder of my sandwich (what, you thought I finished it?), I took it over to my parent's place for my Pop to try (he's a man who KNOWS his deli) and he refused to eat anymore after the first bite... It was then taken directly to the trash... Sandwich, met garbage...
I will NEVER go back to this place it should be known as Toronto's WORST SMOKED MEAT SANDWICH. I feel violated and the service was a JOKE. If this place is around in a year I will be very surprised.
Maybe Mr. Bernstien needs top spend some more time visiting some other top notch delis in Toronto as Caplanskys is probably the wosrt, and it looks like alot of people would agree
i heard the monarch tavern location was better but too bad for the college spot
I will never come back to this place
Aside from that I always left content.
Where do Trolls on this site eat?
ALL READERS should know that most of the posts above are Compeditors or TROLLS just trying to have some effect in the world, they cant get a job, or make friends so they write nasty things in the web.
It is a good place to eat. Not GREAT but just fine.
Suck on that Trolls
Tom
I have been there about 4-5 times: each time it is great. I know and love,respect great deli: because of my background in the projection motion picture industry,through my late father,Jack Bernstein,President of Famous Players Theatres, I grew up with wonderful,long gone great delis in this city: the original Switzers, (on Spadina) Yitzes,Shopsys 3
(when Sam Shopsowitz owned+ran it) I do wish to correct my post regarding Gina Mallet however-I think there is alot of pure snobbish hate,or put downs towards Zane Caplansky and his deli. He is as good if not better than Schwartzes in Montreal-give him 5 years,he'll grow and get even better. There are delis in Toronto which to me are a disgrace: Marky's Kosher Deli: it is dirty,everything was overcooked and tough,Katzes Deli (Yorkdale) is quite poor-I found the meat and sandwiches nothing special.
Dun's is a chain-it is ok. New Yorker Deli is pretty good,but in no way can it compare with Caplanskys or Yitzes or Schwartzes. I've also read put downs of United Bakers too. Whenever I or my family have had out of town visitors or friends/relatives we always take them to #1=Caplansky's, #2=United Bakers, #3=Yitzes. A good Kosher (gourmet) restaurant with fine dining in Toronto is a rare thing to find. Also Zane should be encouraged and supported for bringing back to the heart of old Jewish Toronto a deli that people like myself,who love a great deli,or a place they can point with pride to visitors from outside Toronto: United Bakers, Yitzes,Caplanskys Deli are my choices.
comparing himself to montreal smoke meat,
I wonder if he is even been to montreal...
It's where i'm from and can tell you,
it's a shame to have a restaurant comparing itself to
la belle province,his food is as bad as my english...
Inconsistent on every level be it food, quality, service.
I have to say the service was not great but the smoked meat was great (ordered medium fatty). The meat had a definite smoked flavor that Schwartz's does not (kept thinking of BusterRhino's smoked bbq in Oshawa . As for size it was not big, I did not see a larger (fresser) choice on the table top menu but that may have been my oversight. For size I still love Wolfies at Bathurst and Sheppard but for the Montreal fans I do like Shwartz's but I like Main deli's more peppery taste better however Zanes smoked flavor is now my number 1 choice corned beef choice.
I can say, without hesitation: I will NEVER purchase their food again.
I ordered the 4 piece take out special of the maple fried chicken and it was absolutely terrible.
First off, there were only three pieces and they were all dark meat. It came with a side of the WORST fries I have ever tasted (they seriously looked at least four hours old and were stiff as a board and incredibly dark brown and bland) and some type of steamed (eggplant and green beans, I think? I can't remember now..) veggies that were super soggy and also tasteless. The maple syrup dip concoction thingy was also awful and tasteless. It had the consistency of water, ugh.
At $15, it was definitely a complete robbery and just really, really bad.
I had heard only good things about this place and I am super disappointed as I was looking so forward to some delicious fried chicken that evening... sigh.
On to the next one.
Miserable toads!
Eat roasted owls in pokeweed sauce with bosco-flavored milk of magnesia and porcupine legs pan fried in arsenic and French Fried bastard toadflax!!!
I was last at Caplanskys for my birthday,Zane personally looked after me-the smoked fatty meat sandwich was great as usual, coffee was superb, French fries were the best I've had anywhere, knish was a fantastic,joyous,filling,super tasty meaty treat, and the dessert-blueberry pie: was absolutely the best I've ever had anywhere-total perfection.
I think all of the negative and hostile comments are from snobs, Chowhound foodie phonies,pretencious chowhound or yelper schmucks and a horde of frigging anti-semitic Toronto farts! To all the haters of Caplanskys deli: BUGGER OFF YOU bashi-bazouks!! Eat this meal: Soup of the day: Cream of wasp with rattle snake venom and rancid milk of magnesia!!
Sorbet: Monkshood and White Hellebore with bittersweet chocolate-flavored praying mantis soaked in captain crunch cereal-with peach scented Black Flag!!!!
Salad: Lily of the valley flowers,mandrake roots, wolverine feet in sour cream and fly mushrooms with Marc Bernstein's Splendidly horrible fatal dressing of buttercups,liquid plumber,drano & wolf piss!!!!!
Din din: Panda and wombat stew,with real polar bear crap!!
Dessert: 100 tasmanian devil pie with castor oil ice cream! Hasta La Fucki Assholes!!
This deli, I am sure, is a good place for a sandwich, I have been told by those who have tried it. SO, try it before you utter foulness, toadies.
I find all of you Chowhound, Yelper snobs to be total schmucks-and bloody despicable toads!
They know how to cut the meat, they balance fat spice and meat just right and juicy.
Now i say all this in advance of my first visit next week to Caplansky. I am worried about all the reviews, so I'll view before i eat. I know right away what ral somked meat looks like. I am forever hopeful.
both of whom are now under investigation by FBI.
my smoked fatty meat sandwich on rye was better than ever.
The fries were outstanding.
Dessert: apple crumble pie was superb.
Cotts black cherry soda,excellent coffee,joyous,warm-hearted service,Zane is a real mench in my opinion.
To the internet troll named "Justme"-you don't belong on this forum. Your comments : Re Toads "froglegs" are insulting and worthless,just like yourself,troll.
I ask that Zane Caplansky ban you from this forum now.
There is a line being crossed here it seems-
trolls,haters,anti-semites,food snobs and Chowhound assholes out to ruin this man and the hard work he's doing.
Bunch of bullies as far as I'm concerned.
I'm sorry that you have to put up with so many nasty remarks by trolls and phony Chowhounds,Yelpers,etc.
You are a mench and a pioneer,have courage.
Marc Bernstein.
The last time I was at your deli,everything was great.
Smoked meat was fatty,rich on excellent rye,
fries were crisp and superb,service was full of joy.
Soup-Matzo ball was really good-very full bodied broth.
Dessert: apple crumble pie was very special.
Because of my family background in Toronto's motion picture industry,I have always valued and loved great deli places anywhere,esp in Toronto.
I think that most of the Chowhound posters are snobs,hostile and anti-semites,esp Duckdown from Brampton,who is a schmuck. Ditto about the twirp from Chowhound Toronto board: Vinnie Vindamangi,or whatever the schmuck calls himself.
Hmm.. sounds like it's worth trying. I also enjoy reading everyone's positive and negative experiences. People's comments are important to restaurant owners to learn from and stay in business.
Caplansky's Delicatessen
Inspected on: January 26
Inspection finding: Yellow (Conditional Pass)
Number of infractions: 4 (Minor: 0, Significant: 2, Crucial: 2)
Crucial infractions include: Inadequate food temperature control, operator fail to ensure premises cleaned to prevent food contamination
January 2012
At College St. I stick mostly to smoked meat and these days 80% of the time I think the sandwich is pretty respectable. Repeatable for a good meat fix, ie. not to gorge on high carbs, fats and sugar (well not every time). It's a reasonably healthy nosh. Sometimes I think the staff let this place down and the food presentation slips but overall quality appears much better than it use to be. I'm not blaming them either - as I understand everything from proper service to consistent food requires thorough systems in place & good training, all responsibilities of the owner and manager. The service is sometimes random and careless, and yes, I don't like to wait for unaccountably long periods of time.
I get the impression this is just one chef trying to run a place, with all the quirks it entails to do so and yet it still kind of works. That's something at least.
Oh, and going to Moe Pancers inspired me to read about all good Toronto delis this week.
I'm going to drive a bit farther, if I need a deli fix, and head up to Pancer's. I've been quite happy with their food and service for over 50 years.
I also had the pleasure of being in line at the College street location when I saw Geddy Lee exiting the restaurant. Minor thrill. I was, at the time, with a friend who had gone to high school with Geddy. Apparently, Geddy didn't much care for my friend, back in the day. Friend also had a problem with Gian Ghomeshi, having been in uni with him. And now he has a problem with me. Hmmm.
Getting back to Zane and his sandwich: it's still a very good sandwich, and a definite stop on any tour of the city's notable delis. I just prefer Wolfy's which, happily, is within walking distance of my front door. Also, Wolfy's slices their meat the One True Way, which is thin, and flavourful.