Calico Cafe

1226 Bloor St. W.       Website
Phone: 416.536.1883

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July 22, 2009

Rating: 4.0/5 (20 votes cast)

Calico cafe torontoCalico Cafe is the latest entry into the bulging catalogue of casual eateries that are popping up in Bloordale Village. This vegetarian/vegan restaurant, at Brock Avenue, opened a couple of weeks ago and offers seasonally rotating menus for lunch, weekend brunch and, most recently, dinner.

Calico SignWe visit for dinner on what the affable owner/chef/server Jared Davis informs us is (ominous pause) day 13 in Calico's brief history and are ushered onto the small, sunny, back patio.

Calico DrinksWe order the (non-alcoholic, there's as yet no liquor license here) drinks of the day, a lavender iced-green tea ($2) and beetroot/pineapple juice ($3).

The iced tea is quenching and not over-sweetened but the beetroot juice is fantastic; the earthiness of the beets is offset nicely by the pineapple. It's so good that we share the first juice before swiftly ordering a second.

Calico MenuAs the menu is pretty small, we're able to order most of it between three of us.

Calico SoupThe tomato and wild rice soup special ($6) has an almost ratatouille-like consistency and features a deliciously fresh, rich tomato base.

Calico PolentaPolenta cakes with poached eggs and balsamic syrup ($6) are so new to the menu that we are the first to order to them.

Calico Polenta CakesThe eggs are poached to just the right extent in order to perfectly leach their liquid yolk content into the stodgy discs of polenta. The balsamic syrup adds enough sweetness and depth to balance the saltiness. They're so tasty that they start a barter war as two of us try to persuade my friend to part with one more slice of polenta for whatever she'd like from either of our plates.

Calico TempehMy seared tempeh with mung bean croquettes ($13) comes with a red wine reduction that manages to compensate for my usual hesitation when it comes to said beans. The croquettes turn out to be very good, and apart from the tempeh being a bit more charred than I'd like, I'm suitably impressed.

Calico TofuOur photographer gets the grilled tofu with sautéed kale, sweet potato mash and red wine reduction ($13). The mash is such an irresistibly creamy puree that it quickly disappears from sight.

Calico MousseThe honeydew and mango sorbet is sold out, which gives us a good excuse to order the vegan chocolate mousse with blueberry compote and coconut cream ($7).

As much as I hate admitting it, I'm a practicing stereotype where dessert selection is concerned. It doesn't matter that it's often a disappointing choice - if chocolate is an option, then anything else isn't even a consideration. Happily, this mousse is not one of the disappointments. It's an extremely rich combination of dark chocolate and cashew cream topped with coconut cream.

Calico Dessert The consistency is more like a vegan ganache than a mousse, as the lack of egg whites make it heavy rather than aerated, but that's no bad thing. The presentation of a mint umbrella, strawberry side and blueberry drizzle mean it looks as good as it tastes too.

Calico GardenCalico is a small scale operation and all the better for it. Our table is one of four on the patio and is situated right next to the vegetable garden where the foliage that makes up the basis of the menu grows in neat rows.

Having a server who also happens to own the restaurant and design the menu is much appreciated. He's happy to talk with us when he gets the chance and to answer all our menu queries in depth (though my vain attempt to ascertain the chocolate mousse recipe is batted away with a cheerful grin).

We were all extremely impressed with Calico Cafe; a lot of thought and work obviously goes into the menu and it shows in the food.

Photos by Emma McIntyre

tofuu on July 21, 2009 at 11:01 AM

the tofu looks less grilled, more burnt

Marine on July 21, 2009 at 11:14 AM

The food looks amazing! I need to go there. Mmm tempeh.

Doug on July 21, 2009 at 11:15 AM

So its a Vegetarian/Vegan restaurant? What up with the poached eggs? Either way, that looks AMAZING!

ramanan on July 21, 2009 at 11:26 AM

I fear Blansdowne is getting a bit too hip. This place looks amazing. I need to check it out.

Paul on July 21, 2009 at 12:43 PM

I had brunch there the other day and was disappointed that although they serve eggs, they don't have cream for coffee - just soy milk. The patio is lovely though.

kat on July 21, 2009 at 1:56 PM

this place looks so delish! i am reading this and my mouth is watering....
excited to check it out!

Rochelle on July 21, 2009 at 2:34 PM

I had dinner there last week and it was fantastic. Everything was cooked to perfection and tasted delicious. Really creative vegetarian meals that are presented beautifully. I loved the backyard patio. I need to go back for some beetroot pineapple juice.

Kim on July 21, 2009 at 3:48 PM

oh yeah!!!

Monika on July 21, 2009 at 6:41 PM

I LOVE calico. The food is so fresh, the service is good, the concept is heartwarming, and the best part is that the prices are soooo affordable! Oh, and I'm not vegan or vegetarian. I'm proud to live in this neighbourhood and happy that they've joined us in Bloordale :) Bonus is that the owner also lives in this 'hood, so, for me, that's even more appeal cuz it's someone who isn't just taking advantage of gentrification in the 'hood. I'm also quite happy that they don't have a liquor licence and hope it stays that way...this way the focus is on the food, first and foremost.

LisaM on July 21, 2009 at 8:38 PM

I noticed Calico the other day and thought it looked sweet. Now I have a good reason to check it out.

To the person who fears that Blansdowne is getting too hip -do you live around here? Hip so soon? Is one new bar, one vintage buy-the-pound, some bike shops and three art galleries the death of a neighbourhood? I for one am glad Calico is not another 24 hour Coffee Time, a cheap furniture store, or just perpetually Vacant - For Lease. I'm hoping my 'hood doesn't go the way of West Queen West, but everyone I know loves that there are now a few places nearby to have a drink that doesn't involve naked women or crackheads, places to get healthy food, and interesting art.

Paul on July 21, 2009 at 10:41 PM

That seems like a pretty extreme reaction homeslice. Is Xanax vegan? I think they've done a nice job with the decor.

raraw on July 22, 2009 at 12:25 PM

I love calio. I have been there a few times and have always had great food and service. I believe that everything is vegan, Unless its indicated on the menu. But all the baked goods are vegan. Think its a great addition to the 'hood'. Anyone who offers a healthy meal for cheap is welcome in my mind.

Ashlea on July 22, 2009 at 1:33 PM

Mmmmm... Calico is delicious. They offer both Vegan and Vegetarian dishes. (Vegans = no eggs, milk, Vegetarians = Milk, eggs ok) They are a brand new owner/chef operated restaurant, I hear they are happy to help out anyone who has dietary restrictions, and the presentation of the food is outstanding, as is its taste. Anyone who cringes at the idea of going veg for fear that they would miss out on good food, you need to go here.

As for the decor, give it time, give it time. The owner's partner is a brilliant young artist... I hear there are great ideas in the works.

Owned and fully operated twenty-something non-meat-eaters, Calico is unlike any other veg resto I've ever been to, and I've been eating veg for 16 years. This is a fine example of how young people can help create a better, more sustainable and delicious world.

liz on July 22, 2009 at 4:07 PM

Hey homeslice robinson...you seem to be dropping a lot of misplaced anger on local resto's reviews lately. Do you not have a day job?

I've had nothing but delicious brunches and snacks at calico and the service was great each time I ate there. The chef served me himself! I'll happily send my family and friends there to make up for your poor reviews...

Paul on July 22, 2009 at 8:51 PM

Hi homeslice,

I'm a real person. I live a few doors down from Calico. I used to go to the falafel place that it replaced, Babylon Garden. In fact I posted about the falafel place in an earlier BlogTO thread. I've posted about Calico, and a bunch of other neighbourhood places, on my twitter account, myownbloordale.

I don't think the Calico folks have to worry about one negative comment from someone who's clearly unhinged, amongst a ton of positive responses. Get some help.

Meghan (Making Love In The Kitchen on July 24, 2009 at 10:31 PM

So excited! A new great restaurant in my neighbourhood and yet another reason to eat less Fresh.

sbannie on July 26, 2009 at 8:20 AM

Homeslice.... wrote, "I am telling all my friends, colleagues and family to avoid this place like the plague." The review is their own opinion, of course, but with the threat to keep people away, it sure sounds like they might be a competitor. I have never been to a Vegetarian/Vegan restaurant but when someone protests too much, it makes me feel like he has ulterior motives by trying to keep people away from a new experience. I think I will try it myself.

jennifer on August 2, 2009 at 10:16 AM

Looks yummy. I'll be checking it out today for brunch. Can't wait!

Paul on August 9, 2009 at 2:03 PM

I have been to Calico for Lunch, Dinner and Brunch and I have been thoroughly impressed by each meal.

A lot of thought has gone into the fresh ingredients and presentation of the food as you can see from the pictures. I am very excited to have a restaurant of this caliber in my neighbourhood but I'm afraid once the word gets out I won't be able to get a table:-) Congratulations to the Chef and Bon Appetite!

PS..I was at Mildred's Temple Kitchen the other weekend and this was more special.

Ted on September 4, 2009 at 9:45 AM , replying to a comment from Doug

Vegan = no animal products

Vegeterian = no meat

Lesson over.

sorry, but on November 17, 2009 at 1:48 PM

I went here with my girlfriend for dinner, no wine or beer was a disappointment though one that's understandable given Toronto's ridiculous approval process for licenses. That said, the food (vegan or otherwise) was pretty bad, most of the ingredients seemed reheated, overcooked or (in the case of the red pepper coulis that went with one dish) turned. While it was all really beautifully presented, it seemed overdone aesthetically and just took away from what could have been great dishes provided they were cooked fresh for us.

I really like the idea behind the place, and I'll probably go back and give it another shot at some point. I just think the food is being conceptualized more than it needs to be. You have access to delicious fresh ingredients that you care enough to source and even grow yourselves and there's no reason to overcomplicate this.

NM on November 17, 2009 at 1:57 PM , replying to a comment from Monika

While I would agree with you if this place were in danger of turning into a bar, having wine or a couple local beers on hand would give this place a bit of a boost. Wine especially can be paired with a lot of vegetarian food, bringing out the best in both the wine and the meal itself.

Too many veg restaurants (maybe it's the patrons?) have this notion that serving alcohol takes away from their food experience, and for some it may, but it's also nice to have the choice.

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