Alex Rei dos Leitoes
With 38 years in the same location, Alex Rei dos Leitoes has watched its fair share of gentrifying upstarts come and go, and has fed them all. The chicken is perfectly char-broiled and coated with a sauce that's deceptively clear in colour, but packs searing heat. Rice is pale but has an unusually creamy, risotto-like consistency and the potatoes are deep golden with good scorch marks. Quarter chicken combo, $6.