Momofuku Milk Bar Toronto
Momofuku Milk Bar opened in Toronto on Friday after weeks of speculation that Toronto would be the first international outpost of the cult confectionery shop. The tiny refrigerated glass room sectioned off from the second floor Nikai cocktail lounge fits no more that six or so at a time.
It's really more like Milk Bar-light; there's no soft serve, no fancy shakes or cereal milk drinks (though they are offering cereal milk cocktails now at the bar). Everything is packaged to go and ready for self serve shopping and take-home consumption.
Crack pie is available in single servings for $6 a slice. Like all pushers, the first taste is cheap but a whole pie will cost you a whopping $48. For the uninitiated, I'd compare it to Quebec sugar pie, only in this cult rendition, the crumbly crust is steeped in syrup and just as sweet as the filling.
It's undeniably delicious and lives up to its name. I think my eyes actually roll back in my head a little after the first few bites, the sugar high kicks in halfway through and by the time I'm done my teeth hurt and I'm sweating like Rob Ford (sorry, I couldn't help myself).
I also picked up a plastic-wrapped, compost cookie ($2 each, $11 for six) but saved it for the next morning to have with a coffee. It's crunchy and densely packed with butterscotch and chocolate chips, graham crackers, potato chips, pretzels and coffee grounds. Each bite is both salty and sweet, though quirky ingredients are crushed so fine that nothing really stands out. I'm probably at fault for eating day-old, but it wasn't groundbreaking or anything...maybe I did it wrong and should've tried it dunked in milk?
Boxed baking mixes, corn powder and jugs of dry cereal milk powder ($5) are available for at-home prep. There's the Momofuku cookbook, issues of Lucky Peach magazine and general gift-shop type ephemera like you'd find at the end of museum tour. Load up a shopping basket and pay at the upstairs register or downstairs by the door.
The baked goods are made in New York by Momofuku's superstar pastry chef, Christina Tosi and shipped same-day to Toronto. It's the real McCoy - touched by true baking gods - and yet, the whole experience is a little anti-climatic....You'll still have to visit New York to get a true taste. The grocery-style shop is open daily 11:30am to 11pm.
Our review of Momofuku Toronto
Writing by Liora Ipsum. Photos by Morris Lum.