Cafes
El Almacen
El Almacen is a South American-style cafe specializing in mate, a tea-like infusion made from the leaves of a species of holly which is particularly popular in parts of Brazil, Argentina and elsewhere in South America.
The idea behind El Almacen is to introduce the experience of mate drinking to our espresso-soaked city.
"Going for mate is a social event" our server explains to me when I ask what the impetus for opening a specialized yerba mate cafe was. "Going for mate is more about getting together to talk about politics, culture and life, about the ritual, instead of the faster pace of a coffee shop" she elaborates. "We wanted there to be a place where people could come and experience it for themselves, it's just a different environment".
Inside, El Almacen is nothing if not conducive to relaxing. The interior is painted in warm neutrals and filled with plants, paintings and enough large, round tables (people usually sit in a circle if they're drinking mate in a group) to accommodate plenty of loiterers.
We sit down and eye the menu. Apart from yerba mate, which is served in either a cafetière for one person ($2) or in the traditional wooden gourd if it's being shared ($3), there is a full list of espresso drinks, including café con leche (similar to a latte) as well as tea.
The long wooden counter is strewn with jars of biscotti and enticing-looking alfajores (soft biscuits sandwiched together with jam and rolled in coconut). There are also empanadas if you're more interested in something savoury than in a sugar-rush.
I order a cafetière of mate to start with, thinking that I can persuade Emma, the photographer, to be my gourd friend once she's tried some. She orders a latte just in case.
Mate has at times been referred to as 'liquid vegetable' and, after trying it, it's easy to see why. It has a taste that is part earthy (as in a beetroot), and part light (as green tea). I've never been that interested in drinking much yerba mate, probably because I've never made it properly before, but I like what I'm brought so much that I drink the whole cafetière by myself and order a gourd for us to share.
Our extremely friendly server explains the ritual of serving mate in a gourd to me as she sets it up on the table for us. "One person does all the serving, and you drink the mate through a metal straw from the gourd, which is passed around" she tells me as she spoons yerba mate into the gourd and fills it with hot water.
"You have to drink all of it, then pass the gourd back to the person serving, so they can refill it with water for the next person and so on."
"And," she makes clear, "whoever is serving the mate will make it differently for each person, depending on how they like it or what their relationship with the person serving it, or with the other people at the table, is like".
"Different in what way?" I ask. "The server can make it stronger if they like the person, for example, or maybe use less and make it watery if they don't". "In that case" I ask "do people often end up getting mate thrown in their face?" she stares at me for a second then laughs -- "I don't know! Maybe!"
On the back of their business cards, which are clearly aimed at recruiting first time triers, El Almacen lists five reasons to drink mate. Aside from focusing on the health claims associated with the drink and listing celebrity fans, the number one reason given is that you'll "look hip" when drinking straight from the gourd. The last reason didn't really help me in recruiting a gourd circle; Emma took one sip then left me to it: "maybe not after a latte, it tastes too healthy" she said, clearly immune to the coolness of the vessel.
Both of us leave El Almacen feeling a lot better than when we arrived, so yerba mate is definitely a good antidote to grogginess, especially by the gourd-load. And with service so good and an atmosphere so welcoming, we'll definitely be back.
Photos by Emma McIntyre.
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Every 20 minutes or so they'd do this acrobatic tuck thermos under one arm while holding the mate cup with the same hand while unscrewing the thermos top, and then switching the cup and the top and pouring the water from the thermos while it was still tucked under the arm.
So ridiculous.
Bueno, sí. Es un líquido y entra por la boca. Pero no es una bebida.
En este país nadie toma mate porque tenga sed.
Es más bien una costumbre, como rascarse.
El mate provoca exactamente lo contrario que la televisión: te hace conversar si estás con alguien y te hace pensar cuando estás solo.
Cuando llega alguien a tu casa, la primera frase es "hola" y la segunda "¿unos mates?".
Esto pasa en todos los hogares, ya sean ricos o pobres.
Pasa entre mujeres charlatanas y chismosas, y pasa entre hombres serios o inmaduros.
Pasa entre los viejos de un geriátrico y entre los adolescentes mientras estudian o se drogan.
Es lo único que comparten los padres y los hijos sin discutir ni echarse en cara.
Peronistas y radicales ceban mate sin preguntar.
En verano y en invierno.
Es lo único en lo que nos parecemos las víctimas y los verdugos; los buenos y los malos.
Cuando tenés un hijo, le empezás a dar mate cuando te pide.
Se lo das tibiecito, con mucha azúcar, y se sienten grandes.
Sentís un orgullo enorme cuando un esquenuncito de tu sangre empieza a chupar mate.
Se te sale el corazón del cuerpo. Después ellos, con los años, elegirán si tomarlo amargo, dulce, muy caliente, tereré, con cáscara de naranja, con yuyos, con un chorrito de limón...
Cuando conocés a alguien, lo invitás a compartir unos mates. La gente pregunta, cuando no hay confianza: "¿dulce o amargo?". El otro responde: "como tomes vos".
Los teclados de Argentina tienen las letras llenas de yerba. La yerba es lo único que hay siempre, en todas las casas. Siempre. Con inflación, con hambre, con militares, con democracia, con cualquiera de nuestras pestes y maldiciones eternas.
Y si un día no hay yerba, un vecino tiene y te da. La yerba no se le niega a nadie. Éste es el único país del mundo en donde la decisión de dejar de ser un chico y empezar a ser un hombre ocurre un día en particular. Nada de pantalones largos, circuncisión, universidad o vivir lejos de los padres.
Acá empezamos a ser grandes el día que tenemos la necesidad de tomar por primera vez unos mates, solos. No es casualidad. No es porque sí. El día que un chico pone la pava al fuego y toma su primer mate sin que haya nadie en casa, en ese minuto, es que ha descubierto que tiene alma. O está muerto de miedo, o está muerto de amor, o algo: pero no es un día cualquiera.
Ninguno de nosotros nos acordamos del día en que tomamos por primera vez unos mates solos. Pero debe haber sido un día importante para cada uno.
Por adentro hay revoluciones. El sencillo mate es nada más y nada menos que una demostración de valores...
Es la solidaridad de bancar esos mates lavados porque la charla es buena.
La charla, no el mate.
Es el respeto por los tiempos para hablar y escuchar, vos hablás mientras el otro toma y viceversa.
Es la sinceridad para decir: "¡basta, cambiá la yerba!".
Es el compañerismo hecho momento.
Es la sensibilidad al agua hirviendo. Es el cariño para preguntar, estúpidamente, "¿está caliente, no?".
Es la modestia de quien ceba el mejor mate.
Es la generosidad de dar hasta el final.
Es la hospitalidad de la invitación.
Es la justicia de uno por uno.
Es la obligación de decir "gracias", al menos una vez al día.
Es la actitud ética, franca y leal de encontrarse sin mayores pretensiones que compartir.
Ahora vos sabés: un mate no es sólo un mate...
I went to this place last Monday from all the way in the East End. I will be back for sure. My friends and I had a great time, the owners were so nice and honestly it was the best customer service I have had in a long time.
I highly recommend this place. It was such a unique and interesting experience.
mate isn't a drink. it's more. very long and lovely poetic reasons given why. a mate(drink) isn't just a mate(drink).
I'm checking this place out for sure. thanks for the heads up.
Well, yes. It is a liquid and enters the mouth. But there is a drink.
In this country mate because nobody takes thirsty.
It is rather a habit, like scratching.
Mate causes exactly the opposite of television: you do if you're talking to someone and makes you think when you are alone.
When someone comes to your house, the first sentence is "hello" and the second "a mate?".
This happens in every household, rich or poor.
It passes between women chattering and gossiping, and passes between serious or immature men.
It passes between a geriatric old and among teenagers while they study or do drugs.
That's all share the parents and children without question or reproach.
Peronist and Radical preying mate without asking.
In summer and winter.
Is that all what we look like victims and executioners, the good and bad.
When you have a son, he began to mate when you ask.
Tibiecito are giving it, with lots of sugar, and feel great.
You feel enormous pride when a esquenuncito your mate begins to suck blood.
You give up the heart of the body. After them, over the years, elect whether to take it bitter, sweet, very hot, tereré with orange peel, with weeds, with a squeeze of lemon ...
When you meet someone invites you to share a few mates. People ask, when there is trust, "sweet or bitter?". The other replies, "as you take you."
Argentina's keyboards have the letters full of grass. The grass is all that there is always, in every house. Always. With inflation, hunger, military, democracy, and any of our pest and eternal damnation.
And if one day no grass, a neighbor has and gives you. The grass is not denied to anyone. This is the only country where the decision to stop being a kid and start being a man happens on a particular day. No long pants, circumcision, college or living away from parents.
Here we begin to be great the day we have the need to take a few mates for the first time, alone. It is no coincidence. It is because. The day a boy put the kettle on the fire and making his first mate with nobody at home, at that minute, he has discovered he has a soul. Or are you scared, or is dying of love or something, but it is just another day.
None of us remember the day when we first few mates alone. But it must have been an important day for everyone.
On the inside there are revolutions. The single mate is nothing more and nothing less than a demonstration of values ...
It is the solidarity of those mates bancar washed because the talk is good.
The talk, no mate.
Is respect for the time to talk and listen, you talk while the other takes and vice versa.
It is the sincerity to say "enough, change the grass!".
Fellowship time is done.
It is sensitivity to boiling water. It is the love to ask, stupidly, "Are you hot, no?".
It is the modesty of one who baits the best mate.
It is the generosity of giving to the end.
It is the hospitality of the invitation.
Is justice one by one.
It is the obligation of saying "thanks" at least once a day.
It is the ethical, honest and loyal to meet to share unpretentious.
Now you know: a mate is not just a mate ...
to 'mr hate',
leave your negative comments elsewhere, why do you care so much about how someone is drinking their mate? you obviously way to caught up with what people think as opposed to just living life and having a good time.
According to the comments above, I must agree with "catalist on" about "mr.hate". This individual obviously has way to many insecurities and inhibitions that make him/her uncomfortable about them self and tries to justify him or her self by critiscizing and judging other people to make them self feel better. Definitely, this person isn't Latin American either because a latino estuviera orgulloso de esta almacen y su bebida querida en esta paiz de Canada!!!
What a nice place! We really enjoyed the mate, empanadas, and alfajores. It was our first time trying mate, and the lady working there was very kind in showing us how to prepare and drink it.
We'll be back. You should go.
Also, they are taking cash only at this point for those that typically use debit/credit!
Los dos nos la pasamos de maravilla. Silvio nos dio una explicación detallada de la preparación y de su significado. Seguimos su consejo y compartimos uno entre mi alumno y yo, como usualmente se usa en Argentina.
El servicio, precio, lugar, ambiente, todo muy accesible y agradable, y por si fuera poco también tienen facturas de dulce de leche. ¡Qué rico! y conste que yo soy mexicana.
Uno de esos lugares con carácter que puede volverse tradición en Toronto.
Tienen que ir y disfrutar.
Saludos cordiales
We both had a great time. Silvio gave us a detailed explanation of the preparation and its meaning. Following his advice, my students and I shared one mate, as is common in Argentina.
The service, price, place, atmosphere, all very accessible and enjoyable, and last but not least they also had pastries called facturas filled with dulce de leche. Yummy! (And I am not Argentinian)
One of those places that can become a tradition in Toronto.
You should go and enjoy.
Best regards
Instead, the server decided to have a 15-minute (watch in hand) conversation with a group of four who came in after me, then proceeded to serve them first. The other person behind the counter was busy chatting with two friends. It's only he second time in my life I've walked out of a place.
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Last time I went to the Almacen, I bought five alfajores, two dollars a piece, that's ten dollars. The owner told me take the box that comes with 6 alfajores and you save 1 dollar. That's 11 dollars. Ok cool. We talked for a minute, I gave him 11 dollars for the box and he tells me "not 11, it's 12 dollars because you are taking 6 alfajores". That show what kind of people they are.
The service is really slow and I'm not planning going back.
They sell 2 types of 'wrapped' alfajores for 2.25 each. (6x2.25=13.50) You save $1.50 , not $1. One brand is on special for 11, so you'd save $2.50! they sell two types of alfajores in a box. 1 box is 11, 1 box is 12.
They also have the alfajores de maizena for $2 each. These are made there and are not sold in boxes, they're in the jar next to the cookies, etc.
I guess as you said, you are sneaky and dishonest.
I'm in love with their beef empanadas, so needed in this neighbourhood! The cookies featured above don't have jam in the middle, it's dulche de leche. SO MUCH BETTER than jam.
I believe Argentinians call folks like yourself a certain word... oh i remember, CHANTA!
i am glad after 5 yrs of drinking mate you know what the metal straw is called. -applauds
i'd appreciate it if you keep your comments to Mr. Hate elsewhere.
if he has no right to share and express himself then you definitely don't get to either. for i find you post free of any content.
cheers
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[I am a proudly Argentine translator; and therefore, after reading Carrica’s post, I take the liberty to translate this text for all of those who wish to read it in English. I’ll try to provide you with a translation a little bit more accurate than that of google translator].
MATE IS NOT A BEVERAGE (By Marcelo Carrica)
Okay, yes. It is a liquid and it enters the body through our mouth. But it is not a beverage.
In this country nobody drinks mate just because they’re thirsty.
It is more like a habit, like scratching.
Mate provokes the exact opposite to what television does: it makes you chat if you are with somebody else or makes you think when you are by yourself.
When somebody arrives at your house, the first phrase will be “Hello” and the second phrase will be “Some mate?”
This happens in every home, wealthy or poor.
It happens among talkative and gossipy women, and among serious as well as immature men.
It happens among old people in a geriatric hospital and among teenagers when they are studying or getting high.
It is the one and single thing that parents share with their children without arguing or blaming each other.
Peronists and radicals will give you a mate without hesitation.
In summer or in winter.
It is what makes us victims resemble our executioners; what makes good people resemble bad ones.
When you have a child, you start giving them mate when they ask you to.
You give them a warm mate, with plenty of sugar and they feel like grownups.
You feel enormously proud when your own blood starts sucking mate.
Your heart jumps out your chest. Afterwards, as years pass by, your children will choose to drink it bitter, very hot, with fresh juice, orange peel, herbs or with a little bit of lemon juice…
When you meet someone, you invite them to share some mates. When people don’t know each other very well, they usually ask, “Bitter or sweet?” Others answer, “As you like it”.
In Argentina, keyboards are filled with yerba. There will always be some yerba in any home. Always. Notwithstanding inflation, famine, military governments, democracy, or any of our eternal plagues or curses.
And if that day comes when we don’t have any yerba, a neighbor will always have and give us some. Nobody should be refused some yerba. This is the only country in the world in which the decision of becoming a man or a woman happens in a particular day. No long pants, circumcisions, universities or living far away from our parents.
Here in Argentina we become adults the day when we feel like drinking mate by ourselves, for the first time. It is not by chance. It is not just because. That day when a boy or a girl puts the kettle on and drinks their first mate all alone, it is in that minute, they discover they have a soul.
None of us remember the first time we had mate by ourselves. But it must have been an important day for each one of us.
Revolutions occur within. The simple mate is a demonstration of values, nothing more, nothing less…
It is the solidarity of putting up with those watery mates just because the conversation is good. The conversation, not the mate.
It is the respect to the time to speak and the time to listen, you speak while the other one drinks and vice versa.
It is the honesty of saying “Enough, replace the yerba!”
It is the culmination of fellowship.
It is the sensitivity to boiling water.
It is the affection to stupidly ask, “It’s too hot, isn’t it?”
It is the modesty of those who prepare the best mate.
It is the generosity of giving till the end.
It is the hospitality of an invitation.
It is the justice of taking turns.
It is the obligation to say “Thank you”, at least once a day.
It is the ethical, frank and loyal attitude of meeting each other with no other purpose but sharing.
So now you know: a mate is not just a mate…