Baked Goods
Columbus Bakery
Columbus Bakery is full of baked goods I can't pronounce. Having recently mastered the correct elocution of the word "alfajor" (don't let that 'J' fool you), I walked into Columbus Bakery on Dufferin near Lawrence Avenue with a false sense of confidence. Yes, I spotted the alfajors ($1.50) right away, but then expanded by gaze to include the pastel de arequipe ($1.25), pandequeso ($3.00), and buñuelos ($1.00), and knew I needed a guide.
That's when Carlos Muriel (Jr.) stepped in to show me through Columbus Bakery. "All of our recipes come from back home," he tells me as we stand amid the flurry of activity. "They're one hundred percent Colombian."
But when Carlos and his family first took over the space back in 2003, the bakery was Italian. They decided to continue to bake the Italian offerings, while slowly integrating Colombian treats. "We wanted the transition to be slow," Carlos says. "The community was used to this as an Italian place."
But it's certainly not Italian anymore. The music is Colombian, the packaged cookies, crackers, coffees, and more behind the counter are straight from Colombia, and Carlos estimates that nearly 80 percent of the bakery's customers are Colombian. They come from all over the GTA to pick up or sit and enjoy the shop's freshly prepared breads, pastries, snacks, and sides, which are all--needless to say--Colombian.
Carlos explains that Colombian baked goods are distinct for their integration of guava, cheese (queso fresco), and Arequipe, which is made from slow-cooked condensed milk. The formula has been so successful for this strip mall bakery that Carlos and family have opened another Columbus Bakery at Jane and Wilson. "That one is more of an express shop," he notes.
But here, patrons are taking their baskets of hot Colombian sausages, beef empanadas, and cans of Malta, and digging in at the tables or island seating. The space near the cash is organized chaos, with customers forming more of a huddle than a line. Though everyone seems in great spirits, and interestingly, seem to all know each other. I, of course, am the odd (wo)man out, but confidently ask for an buñuelo and empanada ($1 each) anyhow.
The buñuelo is unlike anything I have ever tried before. It's the size of a small tennis ball, golden brown in colour, and made of corn flour dough that is kneaded in queso fresco. Carlos tells me it's colloquially known as a cheese ball, so I sort of expect some sort of cheese centre.
Instead, it's crunchy on the outside and warm and soft on the inside, more of a cheese-infused bread with the slightest hint of sweetness. The empanada is more familiar to me, made here with yellow corn flour. The shell has a light crisp, and the beef/potato mixture has the perfect texture and flavour, though it would have been better served a little warmer. In any case, I leave not just with a few extra treats, but with a couple new pronunciations rolling off my tongue.
Photos by Jesse Milns
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Valentina and I are in school working hard and we are hungry.
It seems to me that no one's English skills were going to be a match to your ridiculous predisposition to find something wrong about the place.
I highly recommend this bakery. You must visit it!
My advise is that you learn how to speak Spanish Moron...
No need to offend the guy (unless you know him and this is all a joke) and certainly no need to tell someone that he should learn to speak our language in his own country, specially when you cannot even write it properly yourself.
Mike: this bakery is really good and those who serve it are generally most pleasant, like most Colombias are.
why don't you guys show how nice we Colombians are and show our culture to the English community and stop attacking them
remember we are in his country this is not Colombia
@ Sophia - Yes, you got a point in regards to English is a must, but the business has been there for quite a while and mostly spanish clients come in.
I may no be colombian, but I appreciate the fine pastries this bakery has. It is a bit of a culture shock when you go in the store as everything is in Spanish, yet the treats you get there are nice and different from other places.
HI Sophia thanks for welcoming other cultures to your city. I was just wondering if you visited the bakery yet...if you have not, i would like that you get to deal with the rude old lady, and that in the store there isn't anybody that speaks English.
If this happens can you please share your experience...
Mike sorry you got to deal with an old rude lady. Can you be more explanatory of how was this lady rude with you? Thanks
PS please speak slow, loud, and clear and do not start touching the pastries with your bare hands. Good Luck and i hope you enjoy the good pastries
As for the "speak English" comment... most Canadians immigrated from other countries. That's what makes Canada so special! Do you speak English AND French??? Why not?! Let's celebrate our diversity be happy we have a little piece of Colombia right here in our home town!
In regards to the service, you have to understand the culture which is very social and relaxed. It you don't step up and start talking, they will most likely keep chatting away to whoever is there. And I do suggest bringing a Spanish speaking friend for the first time to figure out what you like and how to pronounce it. I did feel like I stepped out of Canada which was kind of neat but also a little uncomfortable as I didn't know what anyone was saying, although everyone including the customers seemed friendly. Two thumbs up and I can't wait to go there again!
I have been to Columbus before and other shops where English is not the dominant language and they have always been very welcoming. Some people get really uncomfortable in new situations.
but now they dont get or deserve mike or my money
customer service goes a long way, and so does respect.
unless you want to go back to columbia you better gentrify yourselves
Robyn - Great reviews lately, really appreciate that you've been going 'off the beaten path', relatively speaking anyways.
Lastly- I am pretty sure the owners of this place are doing just fine with their current clientele (believe me, I am Colombian), and I don't think that a language barrier is going to come between their success.
That being said, I can't help but feel that if you're going to open a business in this city, it's not too much to ask that you have the minimum language requirements to sell your wares in the language that the vast majority of Torontonians speak. You don't need to be perfectly fluent, but you should be able to serve the goods you sell. It's just good business sense.
And Shannon, your "Do you speak English AND French??? Why not?!" comment is baffling at best. This is a Toronto blog. We're talking about a business that is trying to survive in this city, not out-of-date language laws that exist only to pacify Quebecers. In Toronto, French is the ELEVENTH most spoken first language. Between Tamil and Urdu. English is the most spoken first language (about 2.7 million people). Next on the list is Italian - less than 200,000 Torontonians' first language.
Again, as un-P.C. as it may read, I don't think Mike is asking for too much. In a business where you make and sell goods, there are many roles to give your employees. The person whose role it is to speak to customers should be able to communicate in the language that the overwhelming majority of potential customers speak.
I understand that some people prefer to be served in English in Canada. That's a pretty legitimate expectation (when you're not in Quebec) for things like education, government services, etc., but maybe it's a bit overreaching to say that all bakeries must provide English explanations? Sure you can choose not to give them your business but there's no reason to get offended and say they shouldn't be allowed to operate.
So, back to the review - when we go to this place on Saturdays it's usually so full that I don't want to hold up the line by asking questions. We usually look like the odd ones out but it's not hostile or anything and also kind of fun. The sausages are greasy and delicious. And I want to know what those things in the top photo are called too!
Anyway, I have coeliac's so I can't vouch for many of the baked goods, but I have to say that the "chicharron" (deep fried pork rind) is amazing. Also be sure to try the "aji", a cilantro based hot sauce with your empanada. The foods I could eat were all wonderful and it's no surprise to me to read that they are doing well.
I wish them well and wholeheartedly recommend this establishment.
Other of my favorite snacks from back home are: Pandebono, Pandeyuca, and of course Empanadas! I recommend all of these and if you like the cheesy taste, try Pandebono for sure, they sell it there and its mouthwatering!
Have fun!!
Any other suggestions or recommendations?
locate much more data on this question?
Arepa is a corn flour tortilla that is baked on either side. Put some arequipe (the caramel stuff) on it, or butter and queso fresco (fresh cheese) and it's delicious.
Arepas de Chocolo (corn arepas) are golden, and have a coarser density than the regular arepas. Both type of arepas are amazing, and usually come packaged. In the morning, I put cheese and scrambled egg with avocado on top. Amazing.
Chorizo (sausage) con Aji (a-hee) is good stuff.
Bunuelos (buyn-weh-los) are the round cheese balls, they're my absolute fave. Vane made some really good suggestions with the pandequeso (cheese bread) and pandeyuca (yuca bread).
Look also for orejas (o-rehas) which are crunchy baked pastries shaped like ears and dusted with coarse sugar, churros (deep fried pastry sticks coated with sugar), and if they have any, bowls of manjarblanco (man-har-blanco) which is a soft, creamy fudge-like caramel. To die for on top of any pastry.
A bottle of Pony Malta mixed with a glass of milk, or a cafe con leche to wash it down, and you'll feel right at home.
Enjoy!
Obleas, which are also in the same photo to the left and up from the bocadillos, are very thin wafers. Spread a thin layer of arequipe and put another one on top to make an oblea sandwich. Delicious.