Pink Tartan at LGFW FW 2011 (Video)
If Kim Newport-Mimran were my mother, she'd probably have a bumper sticker instructing gridlocked drivers to "Support Our Troops" (my own mother actually does). She's not. Instead, she's one of Canada's most important madams of style, and her own nod to the Canadian military takes on a much more sophisticated form. (Also, I suspect that the Pink Tartan head-honcho does not do bumper stickers.)
"Military again?" was muttered (and probably tweeted) somewhere to my left. But, while Pink Tartan has had wings before, the air force influence was taken to new (and great) heights for FW11. I was anticipating seeing this collection after last Fall's flop was saved by Spring 2011's gorgeous Technicolor safari. With one big hit on the close heels of a huge miss, I knew it could go either way.
The collection achieved what last year's did not. It was military done right. Sulky fitted vintage aviator caps were replaced by a perky peaked version with brass buttons. Fighter-pilot buttery silk jumpsuits took the place of plastic-y skirts. The first model strutted out to an upbeat and bright soundtrack, in a look that made me swoon. The coveted military cap topped an outfit of pleated and tapered split-pea green trousers, a navy silk button-up and patent nude platforms. She's how I'd imagine post-WWII female train station agents might dress. Then again, I do romanticize that era.
Neat and tidy top-knots were army regulation - smooth and taut like basic training bunks. The collection, however, wasn't entirely military-crisp. Full tulle layered skirts and feathered minis added a playfulness to the structure and order. This G.I. Ballerina theme spanned a few looks in military-issue neutrals and blacks. The combo was divine. Full-length high-volume parachute-silk gowns and a few shots of vivid colour added yet more femininity to the palette.
The downsides to the collection were the out-of-place odds and ends. While I liked the swishy wide-leg pants paired with a winter-white coat, they felt a little off-theme. Despite some editing issues, however, Pink Tartan breathed new life into a tired trend and jumped rank with this collection.
Writing by Dayna Winter. Video by Istoica.