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Mattachioni

Mattachioni is a low-key Italian bakery, bodega and pizzeria in the Junction Triangle that was previously Leiria Bakery (as a reminder of its former identity, the Portuguese city's crest remains on the ceiling by request of the former owner).

David Mattachioni - pizzaiolo and 14-year Terroni veteran - has dreamed of having a pizzeria of his very own for a long time. After leaving Terroni in 2013, Mattachioni made wood-fired pies for Norman Hardie Winery in the summers, Drake One Fifty in the winter and also for the short-lived Citta at CityPlace before finally turning his dream into a reality here.

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When he and his team first opened, they were only making fresh bread and panini, but now that the wood-fired oven is up and running in the back room, a small selection of made-to-order pizze has been added to the menu.

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Mattachioni is slowly introducing new aspects to the operation, with future plans to cure his own salumi and even offer gluten-free sourdough.

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Just about everything you can order to eat here is made and prepared in-house (with the cannoli shells and the gelati being some of the few exceptions), and most of the produce - and of course the bread - used to make the food is for sale here should you want to pick up some milk, meat, cheese, eggs, fresh herbs or other groceries.

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There's seating for 23 diners in the small front space (take-out panini for lunch appears to be popular too), outfitted with a few tables and some church pews inherited from the back patio of the now-shuttered Ursa .

The entire place has a very unpretentious feel to it, and pics of Mattachioni's friends who helped him open this spot can be found on the wall towards the back.

If dining in, there are a few Italian wines ($6-$7/$40-$50) plus a couple from Norman Hardie ($7-$8/$50-$60), along with bottles of Anchor Steam ($6 each) and a short list of cocktails ($10 each) to imbibe.

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Eats-wise, the menu is split into salads, sandwiches and pizzas. We try a Saturday's Salad ($12), which contains mixed greens, potatoes, grape tomatoes, oil-poached salmon, hard-boiled egg, unpitted olives, crunchy crouton-like pieces made from dehydrated sourdough, and a bit of fresh rosemary.

It has a great variety of ingredients and would make for a nice lunch.

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A mortadella panino ($8.50) is a simple combo of the the well-loved Italian lunch meat, thinly sliced, and fresh, salty and creamy mozzarella stuffed between puffy, house-made tomato focaccia.

As for the thin-crust pizze, they're all made with naturally leavened sourdough that contain only three ingredients: fermented flour, water and salt. They all come in one size (definitely enough for one person, or two not-too-hungry people) and are served uncut.

We get the Carlo & Giulia ($17), a pizza bianca topped with fresh mozzarella, taleggio, salty black olives with pits, hot cacciatore salami and fresh basil. The crust has a decent amount of char around it, and the two cheeses taste so good that I don't miss having sauce at all.

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This local neighbourhood joint blends in well with its up-and-coming surrounds, adding another option to the burgeoning food scene on this stretch of Dupont.

During our weeknight visit, a steady stream of solo diners and parents with young kids come in to eat, likely lured by Mattachioni's pizza-making prowess. Just look for the red and white "M" on the window out front.

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Photos by Jesse Milns.


Mattachioni

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