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Restaurants

Kim Moon Bakery

  • Currently 2.87/5

Rating: 2.9/5 (38 votes)

Posted by Lisa Pasold / Reviewed on July 16, 2008 / review policy

Kim Moon restaurantI go to Kim Moon Bakery for breakfast when Toronto's feeling like Hong Kong - polluted, muggy, and crowded. I guess it's the weather that gives me a craving for congee and racing papers. And while there is probably better congee in the GTA, there are few options so convenient and reassuring as Kim Moon.

Walking along Dundas, I stop by the newspaper vendor on the insurance building's stoop. Half-hidden by a concrete post, he's easy to miss--he's usually in earnest conversation and mostly sells the Chinese papers. But he always has one or two copies of the Star or the Globe, so I get a paper--it's not Hong Kong horse racing, but that's OK, I don't know anyone who bets on the horses in Toronto, it's not politically correct. Then I walk the rest of the block to Kim Moon Bakery.

As the sign suggests, there's a bakery here--the winter melon pastries are the nicest I've found in Chinatown--but Kim Moon is really a restaurant, and its windows are currently obscured by bubble tea advertisements. I've never actually seen anyone inside drinking such a thing; you want bubble tea? Go somewhere else.

Kim Moon breakfastPast the bakery display cases, there's a plainly-decorated restaurant. Where, when I arrived the other day at 8:30am, the best round tables were already occupied by elderly men reading the papers and drinking iced milky tea and watery coffee, a few little plates at their elbows.

This is breakfast without the dim sum trolley performance; customers just order a few basic things from the waitress. There's reassuring sticky rice in lotus leaf, a variety of buns and pastries (including the essential little custard tarts), and a brief menu. I order the sticky rice and tarts, along with an iced tea and my favourite winter melon pastry. But the key for this kind of breakfast, for me, is congee. Plain, ordinary, white congee.
Kim Moon congee and winter melonTechnically, congee is rice soup, thickened with dry shredded scallops and yuba skin; these days, most places use instant starch. Congee is a bit like chicken noodle soup: it's not about glamour, it's not very photogenic, and everyone has their own favourite recipe. It's straight-forward stuff, the kind of food that grandmothers foist on anyone who dares to complain about a cold or upset stomach. Before adding hot sauce, congee tastes vaguely like porridge, without that regretful leaden oatmeal feeling afterwards.

Within forty minutes, instead of feeling muggy and irritable and wishing myself absolutely anywhere else but Toronto, I've polished off my congee and the Kim Moon pastries, I've drunk enough iced tea with condensed milk to sweeten an army, and I actually feel ready to confront the day.

Discussion

27 Comments

Brandon / July 13, 2008 at 03:18 am
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I like this place, good dim sum.
Friendly staff.
Gloria / July 16, 2008 at 11:06 am
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Nobody betting on horses in Toronto? Get thee to Woodbine!

Prices?
Laura Bee / July 16, 2008 at 11:11 am
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I've always wanted to try congee, there is even a Congee King just around the corner from where I live, but I'm intimidated by the idea of a food which you have to flavour and spice yourself.
I think I need some "congee for dummies" instructions. anyone?
mmmmmmmmmmmmmm / July 16, 2008 at 11:15 am
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Great food review! I like the overall narrative as well. Thanks!
Dave / July 16, 2008 at 11:17 am
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... uhmm... where's the review? This reads more like a journal entry than a restaurant review.

Thanks for your explanation of congee. Can you tell us how the food tasted? You say that congee is sometimes made with instant starch. Is Kim Moon's made this way?

What are the pastries like? Are there many to choose from? What did the winter melon taste like? How to the custard tarts compare to those of other ethnic groups? (Personally, I had a custard tart the other day from Yung Sing bakery that was vile. Too watery and eggy when compared to Portuguese custard tarts.).

You don't mention service, pricing, or taste... Why should we go here and not some other place?
Gloria / July 16, 2008 at 11:29 am
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Laura: It comes with all kinds of dressings. Just order whatever sounds good. My favourite is just simple shredded pork and preserved egg.

By the way, it would be very bizarre to compare Chinese custard tarts to Portuguese tarts in this type of review. A Chinese tart should be evaluated in consideration of other Chinese tarts, not a completely different style of the same type of pastry. We don't review Italian pasta in consideration of Asian noodles.
Malcolm Bastien / July 16, 2008 at 11:34 am
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Hah! Nice story. It's very true about the old men reading the newspaper at this restaurant.

Dim Sum is good here, I'm also a fan of the curried beef buns they bake also.
Dave / July 16, 2008 at 11:37 am
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Gloria, I agree... But I would like to know what the texture is like, the taste, etc. (Like yesterday's comparision of rotis and burritos). Comparisons are not being made anywhere in this review other than "And while there is probably better congee in the GTA, there are few options so convenient and reassuring as Kim Moon."

Great... So right away we are told that their is probably someplace better. How is it better? Where can we find that place?

I don't know - I just find this review lacking important information.
Dave / July 16, 2008 at 11:39 am
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Oy vey... My grammar is slipping. Forgive the spelling errors and what I had meant to say was "So right away we are told that <i>there</i> is probably..."
frank / July 16, 2008 at 11:54 am
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I have to admit that i'm a bit of a cart whore when it comes to dim sum and love the theatrics but there's something fantastically authentic, tasty and unpretentious about the dim sum card at kim moon. whenever i'm in the mood for dim sum without the fuss, this is my go to place!
Gloria / July 16, 2008 at 12:04 pm
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Dave, that's very fair to say, although I guess it should be considered that at what point does a review of Kim Moon turn into one of its competitors? It does point out that maybe the strength of Kim Moon is in its location and its style of service, rather than just its cuisine.

But yes, I definitely agree more information would be helpful; I myself asked for pricing, which is always good to know. The author writes with really good colour, but it's pretty short on the quality of the food itself.
Dave / July 16, 2008 at 12:41 pm
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True dat. It's just that there's nothing really to say whether it's good or not. And location is definitely not a selling point for a lot of people. I mean, it's relative to the writer in this case. I live in North York, so it's not worth it to me to come down.

However, I may have a crappy place next door to me, but I might think it's worth it to check this place out if it were great (like sushi restaurants on Bloor).

I don't expect a review to mention other places that are better (unless they are reviewed as well), but I'd like to know a little about the place supposedly being written about.
jack / July 16, 2008 at 02:39 pm
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funny, the chinese characters for Kim Moon actually mean Golden Gate(ie Golden Gate Bridge in SF)..and instant starch is really rice mixed with baking soda, so the rice will soften faster when being cooked in water..
Gloria / July 16, 2008 at 03:42 pm
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Dave: Really good point about the relativity of locations.

I'm only a 30-minute streetcar ride from downtown ... and I work and go to school there, so I guess I forget about that :P
jody / July 16, 2008 at 04:11 pm
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am i the only one here who is repulsed by the thought of eating what is in those pictures for breakfast?
jack / July 16, 2008 at 08:08 pm
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yes, you are the only one.. just like the way I feel about big fat donuts for breakfast, taco for lunch, and pizza for dinner.. and sugar filled cup cakes
CL / July 18, 2008 at 08:54 am
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hey Laura Bee, the ultimate congee can be found at Congee Wong. I've only been to the North York location but you can be assured that it will have been worth the trip.
Elle Driver / July 18, 2008 at 01:02 pm
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You forgot to mention the best part about eating congee: eating congee with "Chinese donuts"! (As pictured in the congee, and sitting to the left of the bowl.)

Nothing better than eating fried crispy dough for breakfast.
scatterbrain / July 21, 2008 at 02:39 pm
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I went there on Sat on your recommendation. the Congee sucked really bad, I couldn't even finish it (I dont rememebr the last time I didn't finish the food I ordered so I'm not picky at all.
The milk shake was horrible (tasted like sweet water).

The only things good about this place were the pastries.
Otherwise, dont waste your money.
jack / July 24, 2008 at 11:48 pm
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congee is not for everyone, esp non-asians.. only the smart ones can appreciate it..those who are into lemon chicken and egg drop soup will probably have trouble eating real chinese food
scatterbrain / July 25, 2008 at 12:07 pm
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@jack:
"only the smart ones can appreciate it."

hahaha that is the most idiotic statement I have ever heard. who knew there are snobby Asian food lovers out there too lol.

I love Asian food, I lived in China/korea/Japan for 2 years I love Asian food but that doesn't mean that I have to like EVERY Asian food. Even people who were born there dont all have the same taste. lol dont be an idiot lol.

haha your comment is still making me chuckle lol thanx for making me laugh loool.
kimber / May 5, 2009 at 11:21 pm
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This place is amazing for dim sum,i havent tried the congee but the dim sum is the best in downtown toronto for sure. I noticed a lot of you are asking about pricing. I went with 2 other friends and we ordered around 6 different types of dim sum,came up to $20 flat for us three.I dont remember individual prices but its around $2.50- 3.25 for each dim sum dish anywhere. By the way, congee is definely an aquired taste,i grew up with it so i love it but it is kinda like a more soup version of watered down oatmeal with less flavour in comparason to north american foods. If you've ever eaten rice,well,hello, thats exactly what congee tastes like,but in soup form.

Congee equals :
1) day old hardened rice
2) water
3) boil till gooey soup forms

not that complicated.
I HIGHLY RECOMEND KIM MOON BAKERY :)
jay replying to a comment from jack / August 30, 2009 at 07:31 am
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I agree with Jack:
I happen to love dim sum for breakfast. I don't do it everyday or even really every month. But I'm tired of people saying that Chinese food is TOO greasy -- esp. dim sum. What do they think of greasy hash brown potatoes, greasy bacon, greasy sausages, greasy fried eggs, all with buttered toast on both sides??? Luckily it all can get washed down with hot, hot coffee and cream/milk???

Dim sum is a wonderful, slow or fast tradition for many people. It can be treated like a quick breakfast or a slow, relaxed morning 'tea' ritual for the older, retired set with their Chinese tea and a few favourite dim sum dishes. Dim sum isn't always deep fried -- there's actually more steamed dishes -- many, many steamed dumplings. My personal favourite is the preserved duck egg congee. If you can get past the blackened color of the duck egg pieces in the congee -- it's a very delicious congee. This place doesn't serve the best I've had of course, but it's OK. And if your waisteline can take the extra grease, a treat for congee is the Chinese donuts -- a kind of deep fried breadstick-- on top of the congee!
congee / April 23, 2010 at 11:59 am
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congee is more like rice porridge (thick), and you dont need any additions to thicken it. the ratio of rice to water changes the consistency of the congee. thickener? not traditional.
chiu-chow congee is rice soup (runny).
Amar / April 21, 2012 at 06:01 am
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I am originally fom Vancouver and due to the large Asian population there, got addicted to Chinese style cakes and buns. The traditional American pasties and cakes are just too sweet for me with their butter creams, fondants and icing sugars.
Once in TO, I needed to find a bakery for my daughters birthday and other occasions. We orderd frm Kim Moon and at first, when I walked in, I was kind of scared as it's not that "cool" or even very nice looking. However, the cakes looked good and the price was unbeatable.
We picked up our cake on birthday day and it was delicious? One of the best I have had. Now, my only question is will they do character cakes since my daughter now wants a princess style cake and no longer is satisfied with flowers.
Maybe I will they Furama, my favorite for buns and other pastries.
Eugene / July 1, 2012 at 08:29 am
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To the author of this article: Um, congee is not "thickened" with anything other than the starch from the rice itself.
Wong / July 21, 2012 at 08:29 pm
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I heard that KIM MOOM changed ownership several years ago. I stand corrected if what I heard was wrong. Have not tried its pastries and dimsum for quite a few years.

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