The Commodore Toronto
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The Commodore

The Commodore is a 35-seat restaurant in Parkdale helmed by chef Jon Vettraino (formerly of F'amelia and 416 Snack Bar ). It's an intimate restaurant with a seafood-centric menu and a bar program highlighting cocktails and Ontario craft beers.

First impressions through the door are good. The quirky interior design from Marx Kruis (Kruisbuilt) is lovely and unique, featuring a mashup of nautical elements applied with Gaudi's whimsical sensibility.

The lights over the bar were salvaged from Captain John's , the walls are curvaceous, the place settings mismatched. This is a wonderful room to dine/drink in.

The Commodore Toronto

The menu bills oysters and seafood towers best enjoyed with cocktails like the Lolita ($14), a frothy blend of earl grey infused rye and Amaro Nonino. Of the eight taps at the bar, co-owner Jason Romanoff (formerly of Nota Bene ) has dedicated a half dozen to craft beers and two to batch cocktails.

The Commodore

Laconic menu descriptions might leave diners a little a perplexed - so the wait staff better be prepared to answer lots of questions. The calamari ragu risotto ($13), for instance, sounds great on paper; squid ink, slow cooked calamari, toasted sourdough, salumi; but then when it arrives I've got to ask what I'm looking at.

As it turns out, that sourdough comes into play as a crispy breadcrumb topping. The promised salumi? It's sweated out with sofrito to deepen the base of a slow braised ragu comprising chopped squid with rice. It's pleasantly briny but also homey and comforting.

The Commodore

The Hard Salad ($10) is all about crunchy textures of quick pickled turnips, and crispy shallots over a bed of gem lettuce tossed in a sweet and tangy miso ginger dressing and finished with cloud of finely shredded grano padano.

The Commodore Toronto

For dessert, we try an apple and salted almond streusel tart ($8), which, again, I feel needs a proper explanation to be appreciated. This isn't your average streusel, but rather a mini version featuring layers of creme anglaise, caramelized apple and almond crumble assembled to order in a crisp buttery shell.

The Commodore Toronto

Expect The Commodore to open for dinner and keep the kitchen open until midnight most nights.

The Commodore Toronto

Photos by

Hector Vasquez


The Commodore

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