Restaurants
417 Restaurant & Lounge
417 Restaurant and Lounge opened this week on the Danforth just East of Chester in what general manager Drew Burke-Gaffney boasted was a whirlwind seven weeks in the making.
In a word, the decor is slick. Impressive (I suppose) for a seven-week feat — but the dark furniture, blue lighting and wall-mounted water features contribute to an overall vibe that is way more lounge than restaurant.
The massive dining room and overlooking loft with private bar are suitable for private events, but I can only hope that they lay off the DJ booth during regular dinner service because the pounding music (inside and out) made it impossible to have a conversation without yelling across the table.
The backlit bar illuminates bottles of spirits and wines making drinks a definite focal point. The 417 Cocktail ($10) made with vodka, rose liqueur, pressed apple and lime is tasty, but it's the improbably large selection of 22 Ontario craft beers on tap that may prove to be a real draw.
The menu from Chef Kai Zyganiuk is described as emphasizing locally sourced ingredients and influenced by Mediterranean flavours, though I am having a bit of a hard time seeing it. When the Ahi Tuna Ceviche and Lime-Avacado Crema ($13) arrives topped with a grapefruit roasted almond crunch, I can't help but ask, which of those ingredients are local?
The Vine Ripened Tomato and Melon Gazpacho ($7) comes next. Served chilled, the puree of tomato and honeydew has a sweet quality that is punctuated with raw garlic notes that I'm not sure I enjoyed.
The Herb Roasted Lamb Chops and Slow Braised Shoulder ($38) is tender and well cooked. Alongside a heap of sweet purple yam mash, it's a generously sized entree.
For dessert, I try the California Air ($8) that features almond cake, candied fennel, anise streuzel and lemon and white chocolate cremeux. The presentation is beautiful and at last I see hints of the purported Mediterranean influence.
Admittedly this wasn't really my thing; the space is a little too big and impersonal, and the food was somewhat overshadowed by the flashy decor and loud music. With so much going on, it will be interesting to see if the 417 can find a way to embrace its nightlife vibe and also provide a dining experience that is worthy of being priced on par with some of Toronto's finer restaurants.
Photos by Jesse Milns
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417 Restaurant is a something that the neighbourhood needed. There was no loud bumping club beats the author was referring to on Saturday, just nicely curated songs. The transformation was worth the wait as the decor and design made you feel like you were in LA.
The menu looks amazing, and the prices - they are a bargain - not as the title suggests "pricey mains". Seriously, where else could I get a 10oz Ribeye steak frites in the city for under $30, and perfectly cooked? It was huge portions, flavourful and was definitely a winner. My partner had the pickerel, and I was fighting to sneak in bites. We also had the ahi tuna; a must, and the pressed feta - Greek enough?
Dessert was another world; the presentation and plating was crazy good. The nonbaked cheese cake and the California Air (almond cake) speechless.
The staff were really professional and attentive. Definitely be back for more.
Jesus, get over yourself.
I'm with "pricey mains", the space is just too huge, but well suited for concerts. My opinion, I don't need another overpriced lounge in my hood for the suburban set to come to the Danforth to play at.
You work for Astoria or something?
And as for everyone who thinks it should be a live venue...isn't that what the Danforth Music Hall is?
When you look at the portions and the prices - you too would be shocked. Try ordering a lamb dish in the city with 3 pieces with lamb shoulder that isn't gamey NZ meat, but very succulent and well plated - all for under $40 - and with sides to boot.
Proper services needs proper write-up... isn't that why others ask for our opinion?