Caplansky's Deli
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Y'know you're doing something right when you're being called the messiah of smoked meat, your fare's got a fan club with Geddy Lee in it, and it's so popular it's spawned its very own backlash! But fuck, people, it's only a sandwich...
Purists kvetch at the mere mention of Caplansky's in the same sanctified breathe as the
Sinai of smoked meat--Schwartz's in
In spades.
Zane Caplansky is a mensch. Talking to him is like getting into a warm bath: you always come out slightly dizzy but with a sense of wellbeing that carries you through the day. Charming to a fault
this youthful 40 year-old works the room like the seasoned restaurant veteran that he is; his jovial presence affable demeanor, somewhere between Jackie Mason and Jerry Seinfield, is one of the other reasons for hitting this stealthy little spot on a side street in Italia Minor. After a little chat with him you begin to notice how aware he is about history -- his own, deli culture, the neighbourhood -- and how passionate he is about preserving it, admitting that if he ever outgrows the Monarch, he hopes to open a little deli outpost on Nassau near the spot where his granddad used to run a butcher shop and bring a little Jewish back to a neigbourhood still known in many circles as the Jewish Market.
Climbing the stairs to the Monarch's second floor is a great build-up to your meal as you're spit out of the dark staircase into a simulated '70's legion hall interior, the ambience not unlike a children's drawing: full of cartoon menace and oozing primary coloured chaos that ultimately reveals an innocence and playful juxtaposing of elements enough to make even the hardest hearts flicker with delight. This vibe is often derided by more grown-up elements that've forgotten the power of magic words but you get the sense on any visit that lost boys would be waxing esoteric with blue-haired bubbies next to the xxx crumb-inspired '70's pinball machine while discovering the dirty on how to make a fool-proof chicken soup that'll cure asian bird flu (the tetra-granny-ton) all presided over by Zane's clown princing. The only thing missing is dogs playing poker at one of the corner tables. Jaime Kennedy once stopped in for a bite, congratulating Zane on the fact that in the Monarch he's got a ready-made cool-factor that usually costs restaurateurs thousands in fees to fellas usually named Yabu or Pushelberg.
So how's the food then?
You mean you haven't tried?
The sandwich ($7) is a meaty interface of pure, oldschool un-diluted joy (despite what the haters'll tell ya). Fresh, chewy Silverstein's rye groans
under the weight of 7 juicy, heart-stopping ounces of succulent, smoky, hand-carved brisket (ordering the meat "fatty" is the only way to eat this bad boy... if you're worried about the waistline,
remember you walked up stairs to get here). It doesn't taste like Schwartz's (which should in no way detract from how fine a smoked meat specimen this is); it has more in common with the brisket at Phil's Original BBQ than
The fries ($4) are perfectly crispy, without a hint of grease and salty enough to stand up to the aggressively flavoured sandwich. They're even better
smothered in the thick, beef-flecked gravy and squeaky cheese curds available in the poutine 'upgrade' ($6). You'll struggle to finish an entire serving along with a sandwich--it doesn't mean you won't try though.
The knish ($5) is has gravy laced flaky pastry stuffed with much spicy chopped beef bits from the smoker mixed with chunky potatoes; an homage to corned beef hash that would definitely be kosher, or at least not out of place next to some over easy eggs for breakfast.
The borscht is a wonderfully ruby sweet and sour broth and the split pea is hearty stick to the ribs soup is the perfect antidote to winter (both $4).
Keep an eye open this summer as Zane promises to extend his hours in honour of the coming patio season offering the beer-soaked College Street masses a chance to hit their culinary g-spot with a tasty late-night bite.
I asked Zane a little about his inspiration and plans and...well...never one to shy away from a chat, here's what he had to say:
What's your favourite TO deli?
Switzer's
Do you have a regular order when you're there?
corned beef, fries, cream soda
Describe a formative food experience, one that made you realize that food was something more than just sustenance.
One experience? Hmmm... In her early '70s, my Nana baked and froze a dozen little blueberry pies. She then packed them into her luggage and brought them to me in London, England. She knew how much I loved her blueberry pie and I knew how much she loved me.
Does it bother you when people compare your smoked meat sandwich to Schwartz's?
No.
Is there such a thing as too much smoked meat?
How could there be? Its like saying "too much love". Pish tosh.
Which Iron Chef would you challenge to battle smoked meat and why?
I really think my product is special so it doesn't matter who I'm up against. In a Deli Battle, I'd take Bobby Flay because he's so darned good. I'm sure I'd learn a lot from him.
Why is deli culture important?
That's like asking "why is breathing important". Food is the soul, the mortar of life. Jewish life and and non-Jewish alike. We all have to eat. But Deli is Jewish comfort food. It makes us feel safe and warm and loved.
Who would you like to play you in the film adaptation of your autobiography?
Johnny Depp. LOL.
Who would play your sandwich?
Steve Martin only because I'm mad that he did the Pink Panther and Cheaper by the Dozen Movies.
What would you eat for your last meal on Earth?
I'd start with my mother's chopped liver, followed by my Bubbie's chicken soup with matzoh balls (with sailboats and eggies). my father's Caesar salad, maybe a piece of knish with caraway rye for the gravy (my gravy) and then my own version of the Schwartz's Combo: rib steak char-grilled rare, point cut of my smoked meat, my braised bbq brisket and a few pork ribs. For desert? Nana's blueberry pie and ice cream (vanilla) and some of Catherine's cheesecake.
Photos courtesy Alex Vickers
Comments (50)
Caplansky's is the best smoked meat in the whole city.
Best everything actually, they have a flawless menu, and great service.
I have no clue how this was voted the #1 deli. I went there today and was very disappointed. The smoked meat sandwich was average at best. It was small and a bit dry. The service was horrible. Katz's and Corned Beef House blow this place away. By far. I won't be going back anytime soon.
I ate here. It was not good. It wasn't even go-back-and-try-again good, let alone "rivals" "Montreal" good. Silly. The mustard was bad and meat was dry and flavorless.
I've lived in NY for a long time and the deli's are horrible: fatty, rubbery corned beef at Katz's on Houston St. and rip-off tourist traps like the Carnegie and Stage delis on 7th Avenue. More importantly, the local, neighborhood places have all but vanished - pushed out by unaffordable rents or the bulldozer. The opening scene at a quintessential New York deli (meaning a good one worthy of the assembled comedy talents) in Broadway Danny Rose is a celluloid illusion.
Please tell me, anyone, where to get a good CB on actual rye bread for less than the $20-plus charged by the 2d Avenue Deli at its new spot in the thirties.
BTW, what is the state of Jewish dairy restaurants in Toronto? I had a memorable plate of boiled potato pirogen in a Montreal restaurant when I attended Expo '68, but that has been my only visit to Canada. But I'd go to Caplinsky's or Yitz's in a eye blink.
I love that it is set up right in the Monarch, but my smoked meat sandwich was really dry. The poutine was pretty good.
I miss Schwartz's...
Don't know what the original reviewer had, but the meat was very dry - "douse in mustard" dry. Poutine was OK if the gravy was not so runny. Not a repeat.
I too had a 'dry' (figuratively and literally) experience at Caplansky's... It was a slow and snowy Wednesday night...Could that have affected the quality of the meat? Did they have some moistureless ends and decided to give them all to me on purpose? Everyone who likes the place espouses on and on about the meat's distinctive flavour, but I've tasted that flavour before, and it's far from distinctive... It completely reminds me of the slices of Schneider's packaged bologna I used to 'Broil/Grille' in the toaster oven when I was a kid...
The best smoked meat/corned beef sandwich I ever had was at Toronto Hadassah-WIZO Bazaar... Moist, generous, and fantastic with the pickles...
this place is awful. got take out on a weekday. meat was dry and tasteless. no idea what the reviewers were smoking. either that or the quality has gone in the craphole.
even druxy's blows this place out of the water.
Tried it on a busy Saturday afternoon, so there is no excuse for the following problems:
- Dry meat. Smoked meat is steamed to heat it up, so it must have been left under a heat lamp.
- Grey meat. It was probably overheated / cooked by the heat lamp.
- Mediocre fries. They were not salted while still hot with fat. Come on people, this kind of JV mistake shouldn't happen.
- Poutine. Poutine with smoked meat is poutine italienne. This should be identified as such. The gravy-to-smoked meat ratio was also too low, so it lacked the necessary graviness.
- Where was my pickle? I ordered a pickle and got a sliver of pickle. Caplansky's isn't cheap, so they should spend the extra 25 cents and give me the whole damned pickle. Additionally, the pickle lacked crispness. Probably cut and left out too long.
All in all, 1/5 stars. This was a very disappointing experience. They should take a trip out to Montreal, take notes, and fix this operation before they lose all the good press they gained from BlogTO.
I went to Caplansky's last night and it was horrible. The meat was so smokey it tasted like an ashtray, the coleslaw was dry and don't get me started on the gravy. At the end of the meal a lovely sevage smell filled the room and it was over for me.
Do not go here, go to Pancers or even Katz's.
We went there this evening and were very, Very, VERY disappointed. After reading wonderful reviews, we were so excited about trying it.
After paying $38 (sandwich, fries, small container of gravy and we bought one jar of mustard for $9) we threw most of it in the garbage. Meat was TERRIBLE, and fries were below average. The container of gravy tasted like the meat so it rendered the fries inedible. The "homemade" mustard was chemical tasting and waxy - it's now in the garbage.
I was so excited to hear that Toronto had a place that had good smoked meat - I was wrong. I will never go back. 1/2 star (if even). Even the pickle was disappointing.
Just went there last night for the first time, and it was the closest I've ever come to having a religious experience. This is my favourite deli in Toronto, tied with Schwarz's for the whole world.
wtf...what's with all the negatives...1. its just a sandwich..2. its delicious...3. combo with a beer for perfect match...don't judge, just enjoy ..
It's amazing how completly pointless restraunt reviews seem if you ever follow them. It's like they are written by people who still believe in the easter bunny. This place has no significant improvment on other smoked meat sandwhiches. What's worse is the entering the place makes you feel like you've gone back to a high school locker room. I think sports desk was even on the tv. Disgusting.
After reading all the hype about Caplansky's Deli, here is my review:
Service = awkward and terrible (After finally figuring out who to order from and actually getting their attention, I asked to eat in house and was given my food in a bag to go, with take-out mustard - not impressed).
Smoked Meat = dry and cold (flavor was OK, but not equal to the hype. This I could live with if it was warm and moist, like smoked meat should be served).
Pickle = soggy and flavorless.
Overall experience:
Caplansy's = Overrated and not worth it.
I feel like calling Schwartz's and apologizing for having blasphemed!
Amusing to read reviews from people that claim the pre-packaged commercial stuff from Corned Beef House is better then this.
Compare to Schwartz's ? First off, Schwartz's has been in business for what, 80 years or something? Caplansky's started out last summer. Give the guy some time to adjust and tweak.
As a native Montreal who has spend lots of time at Schwartz's and Ben's, Caplansky's flavor far outdoes those bland Montreal sandwiches.
Sure, it's in a tavern for now. Get over it. It means great cheap beer. It's a matter of time before Zane get's his own place. Give him time. It's been hit and miss on a few occasions for me as well. Am I ready to throw the place out? No.
So all you haters can take a 6 hour drive for "real" smoked meat in Montreal, or your clueless ones can go eat Lester's smoked meat at Corned Beef House or Druxy's.
Some of us appreciated craft food.
Thank you Zane
According to my research, the Monarch has been around longer than most of us have been alive. If you want to be snotty and judge the place by something as menial as what's on the TV, you probably can't be pleased, and your review shouldnt be taken seriously.
Went there very late on a Friday night, so i hope that had something to do with my very mediocre experience.
service - not good at all, why do they need one server for food and one for beers? weird.
the sandwich - not bad, and i'd be willing to give Caplansky's a try again based on this alone... but absolutely no comparison to Schwartz's!
we got a quarter of a pickle and the coleslaw was absolutely rank!! one mouthful was enough, embarrassing that they would serve something like that. fries weren't anything special either.
Overall experience = C
after hearing so much about this place, I have to say I was a tad disappointed. I'll give it another go on a busy wknd afternoon... hopefully, it'll be a better experience next time!
Isn't there a BlogMontreal site that all you haters can go to and share your wet dreams over Shwartz's bland sandwiches and surly service?
Caplansky's is better. Done.
What a backlash!
To all those who complain of the meat being dry -- did you get the fatty cut? 'Cause it's pretty moist every time I have it.
The service has always been fast and friendly on my visits. As for why they have two servers (one for the bar, one for the food), it's because Caplansky's operates in the Monarch but the Monarch doesn't own Caplansky's. He's just renting space in there. Don't like it? Go to the Pickle Barrel.
Remember, everything is hand-made here and the quality will vary with every batch. If you want the same thing every time, go to delis where the meat is injected with chemicals to give it that smoky taste, then painted black to make it look like it's actually been smoked; where the environment is cold and sterile with nothing offensive on TV. Enjoy!
Update: Zane has posted a response to the negative comments here on his blog, where he explains why a recent batch of meat was not up to snuff... http://blog.caplanskys.com/2009/04/08/reality-check/
To quote "If its not hot enough, not fatty enough or too fatty we will replace any sandwich. If you hated it and didn’t say anything so you could go home and write that it sucked and people shouldn’t go, what can I do?"
Well said.
those of you who thought the meat was dry, did you order lean? because yeah, the lean cut is going to be drier than the medium and fatty. some people dig that though. if you want really moist meat get the stuff with more fat in it!
and quit it with the schwartz's comparison! this isn't fucking montreal. yes, schwartz's is fucking awesome. but you can't have it. so cut it out!
Wow. Do people have anything better to do than to attempt to ruin a good man’s honest business? I’ve gotten to know Zane a bit and he’s definitely a stand up guy doing something he loves to do. In my opinion the food was amazing. I’ve had pretty much everything on the menu and loved it. I even took some left overs home to my 2 year old and her innocent tastebuds loved it too. Now, it’s understood that not everyone’s got the same tastes, but if you don’t like it, maybe just try not coming back. Do you really have to go out of your way to trash it? If it’s aggression you got, try sports, where your opponent can actually hit back.
My partner and I go nearly every weekend for lunch and we both love it. We get the medium cut and it's perfect. I've had the lean once and it was too dry, but that's to be expected. The fries are always perfect and the service is also great.
My only complaint is with the coleslaw; hardly any taste and no zip.
>pre-packaged commercial stuff from Corned Beef House
what on earth do you mean? AFAIK Corned Beef house uses fresh brisket, I've seen them cut it fresh.
If anyone is willing to make the trip north of Steels Ave, Centre St Deli has a by far better sandwich. Don't believe me? Go on the weekend for lunch and the lineup will be 30 deep to get a table. I've been here and have to agree with most people's comments, dry meat with bad service to boot. Try Centre St and you will be amazed.
PS Centre St Deli was voted no 2 best in T.O. for Smoked Meat Sandwiches, right after Caplansky.
dear reviewer -
i suspect you made yourself known as such and resultantly got extra special treatments and extra special cuts of smoked meat, the way you rave about this spot. since it opened last summer, i've given it THREE (count 'em, THREE) chances to prove itself (i wont say himself, that sounds personal), and each time my sandwich was not good. not sparse in quantity, but FAR from juicy on all occasions, my dining partners and i were unanimous. caplansky's is about 80% hype, and although i wish we had more places downtown that did smoked meat properly, i'll go to zupa's or yitz's all the hell the way uptown before going to the monarch again - for anything but beer and a hot california sandwich.
ALSO - smug mr. caplansky says he's happy to give you another sandwich, but i tried this on my last visit - and he was NOT HAPPY to do so. i consider myself a passionate eater, and a grand lover of sandwiches, but if this were to be put beside a shwartz's pile - there would be a joke. and im also very pro-toronto, so it pains me slightly to say.
and to JEFF: people are entitled to their opinion when they feel ripped off by an establishment; and ten people will read the overly glowing review before one reads what average people thought in the comments. ultimately, good restaurants are good because they're consistent - and this place is definitely not that. so don't shvitz over poor little zaney's feelings. who 2publicly rebuts critics?! no serious cook - that is on some brock sheppard (of the former azul) embarassing type shit.
The hype on this place was huge. I went once, and I will not return. The sandwich was sooooooo medicore. Whoever praises this place, is just not educated on what a real Smoked Meat sandwich is supposed to taste like.
I've been to this place twice - shortly after it opened and earlier this year. First time enjoyed the unique taste, second time the recipe had been changed and the sandwich was mediocre at best and knish was bland and cold.
There's great hype about this place and it is inconsistent at best - unfortunately those who dare say they didn't enjoy their meal are often shouted down on the boards and told their opinions are uninformed.
I'm no expert but the 3 times I've been I've always ordered the fatty and never been disappointed. And you have to love a place with a pool table with the chalk on a string.
I've been to Schwartz's twice...
First time i thought "I don't know what the big deal is..."
It had great mouth feel, but that was about all.
The second time, my fiancee said, "I don't know what the bid deal is..."
When in Montreal, we skip Schwartz's.
When in Toronto, i make a v-line to Caplansky's. My only disappointment was the pea soup. Othewise, everything on the menu was excellent - especially the knish.
The Schwartz lovers are like the emperor sans clothes....
The Caplansky haters (and Monarch haters) just want something to whine about. Perhaps they should wonder why every Toronto publication is tripping over the accolades thrown Zane's way. Tongue, meet tastebuds.
I just had my first experience with Caplansky's (I had no idea this treat was just down the street) and I was very very impressed. I went with the $12 combo, which while a bit pricey was worth every penny. I've experienced some good smoked meats in my day, I've visited Schwartz's and several other less publicized Montreal delis and I have to say this ranks right up there with them. There's something to be said about the dank location, the handcut, freshly prepared meals that will always win out over the popular busy delis. With the press Caplansky's is picking up these days (with it's fair share of nonsense haters who just seem to like going against the grade) it won't be long before they're in their own establishment...but I'm definitely going to enjoy it while it's snuggly located in my neighbourhood pub.
Went first time last night and it was awesome. Loved the monarch and the super friendly staff. For a place that looks like such a dive at first glance, it really exudes a welcoming vibe. The smoked meat (got the fatty) was fantastic and so was the poutine. The cheese curds lacked the squeekiness that's really required for great poutine. I'd agree it's a tad pricier than most places, but definitely worth the quality for an occasional lunch.
I stopped by the first time and ordered their combo.
The smoked meat sandwich was heavenly! Instead of the fries (that come with the combo), I ordered the Borscht soup, which was a big mistake. Too sour and salty for my taste. Added to that, the combo is served with another sour dish: a big plate of slaw. After my meal, my stomach was churning in acid. I could feel it.
Next time, I'll just order the sandwich and fries. Much better mix.
After reading the rash of negative comments, I guess I've been remarkably lucky in my half-dozen or so visits to Caplansky's. I ate well each and every time. The medium cut of smoked meat has always been delicious. I try to make it my business to turn up just after 2 p.m., after the rush has subsided - I suspect lunch is best at Caplansky's - when Heshy, an old pro, is usually cutting the meat by hand in the tiny kitchen. The fries, I find, are among the best in Toronto. The cabbage borscht is the tastiest commercial borscht I've had - I like its zingy bitterness, which gives it a distinct character. If it's not to your taste, the pea soup is what you should go for. The vinegary cole slaw is what cole slaw should be. And the pickle is just fine. "Distinct" is the word I'd apply to Caplansky's. It's a joint with a distinct character. Agreed, Centre Street Deli and Pancer's also turn out respectable deli sandwiches - I don't think any other Jewish deli in Toronto is worth considering - but Caplansky's has distinct character in spades, which is pretty good for a place that has only been around for a year or so. If you don't like it, don't go back - that'll just leave more room for those of us who enjoy it.
OMG, this is a serious war between Toronto and Montreal! I live in the same city as Schwartz’s, and I just love their smoked meat. Instead of debating the point, why don’t you come and try it in Montreal? You just need to know the rules on how to order it. http://www.tourisme-montreal.org/Blogs/Epicurean-Life/Schwartz-s-Restaurant-it-s-all-about-smoked-meat
So, time to backtrack.
I read Caplansky's explanation of why the meat was bad around the time that I first tried it, which motivated me to give it a second chance. I tried it a couple weeks ago for the second time. Not only was it a completely different experience, it was honestly better than Schwartz's. Seriously: the best smoked meat sandwich I have ever had, period.
I'm a bit of a connoisseur. I like my smoked meat, and I've been to all the institutions, and now I don't bother going to Schwartz's since Main across the street is better, and less insane (and the service is amazing!) in Toronto, for years, I went only to The Center Street Deli, which is way north, but worth the trip. I also went to Moe Panzer's, which is less north but also less spiritual. Since having had Caplansky's, I've put them into a category all of their own... since they make what they described to me as "Toronto Smoked Meat" taking the best of Montreal, and adding the amazing spices that Southern BBQ is famous for... I don't know what all you folks are complaining about. I assume you're merely ignorant, you MUST say you want fatty, hand sliced. Anything else will not do. The friction of the spinning blades of machine slicers change the subtle flavours of the meat, and of course, just as you wouldn't enjoy a hamburger that's got no fat in it, smoked meat is equally best enjoyed fatty. On a downer though, their fries kinda sucked. I highly recommend getting the borscht instead. Happy munching!
As a former Montrealer living in TO now 33 years, it has been a problem finding deli restaurants to compare to Montreal. Centre Deli, on Centre St. is the only authentic Mtl. deli. It is owned by family of Snowdon Deli(Mtl). Order the old fashioned smoked meat sandwich, medium fat is the best. All the food is wonderful and the fries are crispy and sweet. It may be out of the way for some of you, but it is worth the trip.
I went to the new Caplansky's this and was horribly disappointed with the quality of food and the service. Over the last couple of months, I had been to Schwartz's in Montreal and Yitz's / Pancer's / New Yorker deli in Toronto, all of which were good.
In fact, I have never waited so long to get a sandwich, as I did at Caplansky's and by the time I got it, the person I was eating with was already finished their meal (brisket). There were hardly any people in the restaurant on top of it all. Just because I'm eating a matzah ball soup doesn't mean my sandwich shouldn't come at the same time or at least shortly after. Even the pickles lacked freshness and sliced thinly like i've never seen at a deli. Finally, it was completely overpriced and felt ripped off. Do yourself a favour and stick with Yitz's, Pancer's, Centre Street and the New Yorker. There is no deli feel to Caplansky's --- not sure where the flawed reviews came from. I really hope Caplansky's could improve, as Downtown needs the deli revived!
smoked meat was dry and had a really over the top smokey flavour. fries were spectacular. cole slaw was pretty weak, no flavour, just malt vinegar. highly overrated.
I am a big fan of smoked meat and was very excited when I heard about Caplansky's. I finally made it there over the weekend. There was a very long line up that was definitely NOT worth the wait. Our fries came out first (they were really good!) but our sandwiches took another 20 minutes. When it finally came, the meat had no flavour except for SALT and a lot of it. I love my fair share of salt, but they really overdid it to the point that my sandwich was disgusting. I couldn't even finish my sandwich. Seriously disappointing. I will probably not go back. It was overpriced and service was mediocore. It really was the worst smoked meat sandwich I've ever had - too dry and way too salty.
The following pertains to the newer College Street location.
I went there with some friends for lunch today. I got the chopped liver sandwich on challah with a side order of latkes. For seven dollars, the sandwich was rather small and plain, and four tiny latkes for four dollars is kind of ridiculous. (My friend got fries with his sandwich, and I'd say they were worth their price.) The latkes themselves were all right, and the apple sauce they came with was pretty good -- there just wasn't enough latke to go with it. I was disappointed with the sandwich. The liver was okay, but the bread was very dry -- almost stale. My friends were reasonably satisfied with their orders, but all agreed that it wasn't worth the price (especially given the other places in the area). The service was okay, though they forgot our side orders at first. I kind of understand that, it was very busy.
I don't see myself going back.
HAD LUNCH THERE TODAY.
VERY BLAND AND DISAPPOINTING FOOD.
THE PORTIONS WERE SMALL FOR A DELI,NOT GOOD VALUE?
THE MATZAH BALL WAS ALMOST BIG ENOUGH TO SEE.....I GUESS IF THE BOWL IS SMALL IT ALMOST LOOKS NORMAL!THE FRIES WERE DELICIOUS,EVEN THOUGH THEY ARRIVED 10 MINUTES BEFORE THE SANDWICH?THE SMOKED MEAT HAD VERY LITTLE FLAVOUR AND WAS A BIT DRY AND CHEWY.
ALL THE PIES WERE SOLD OUT FROM THE NIGHT BEFORE,AND I BET THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN ONE OF THE BEST ITEMS!
AT LEAST THE SERVICE WAS GREAT!
OVERALL...... I GUESS IT WAS ALL HYPE? I WON'T BE GOING BACK.