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Fashion & Style

Anastasia Lomonova wins TFI New Labels competition but House of Groves has my heart

Posted by Briony / April 29, 2010

Anastasia LomonovaThe Toronto Fashion Incubator's annual New Labels competition went down at the ELLE Event's TFI fundraiser last weekend, with Montrealer Anastasia Lomonova taking the prize, and Toronto's House of Groves winning the hearts of everyone else. (Also-rans include Diepo, Birds of North America, and Paris Li.)

Anastasia LomonovaAnastasia LomonovaI've been a Lomonova lover for a while, but I always thought of her as more of a high-end streetwear designer, what with her simple, cute frocks. Her winning collection--which netted her a cool $35,000--was a nuanced, mature variety of dark looks that blew the crowd away with their detailing and offbeat silhouettes. Where did this collection come from?!

Sheer spiderweb-like dresses draped with sumptuous jersey or delicate silk ruffles, a minidress made from silk petals, and a gorgeously draped seventies-Halston-like swathe of gorgeousness shows that Lomonova has scooted up a few levels in her sartorial skills.

House of GrovesHouse of GrovesHouse of GrovesHouse of GrovesShe may have won the competition, but another winner was present in the form of House of Groves, which was, I think, actually the superior collection. Jennifer Waters' collection was definitely a crowd favourite, and also showed an eye for timeless cuts, excellent fit, and classy carnality that was pretty impressive. She could've just as easily won.

Her equestrian-meets-A Clockwork Orange collection--complete with sexy-ass riding crops and wee top-hats--was, simply, exquisite. Check the leather-bodiced cocktail frock, the wool circle jacket, the femme sleeveless lace blouse, the full skirt, the sharp leather shortie jacket, and the leather-trimmed blazer with the puff sleeves.

I super-swooned, too, over the sleekly sporty jumpsuit with the ruffled neck and buttons up the back--sometimes covering up can be sexier than revealing all! I wants.

Damn, House of Groves--you should have won after all. I think I love you.

(Oh, and for the bonus round, each designer had to craft three Barbie-inspired Little Black Dresses. I was quite disappointed with Birds of North America's main collection, but one of the LBDs she produced was a classic, classic stunner. House of Groves' piece was perfect as well.)

House of Groves Clockwork OrangeAnastasia Lomonova DressPhotos by Jonathan Loek.

Discussion

7 Comments

Castor Reigns / April 29, 2010 at 01:05 pm
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It sounded like if Anastasia didn't take home the prize, there was going to be hell to pay.
Bernedette / April 29, 2010 at 01:33 pm
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House of Groves should have won. The way their garments fit on the models was perfection. The collection was exquisite. In my eyes, House of Groves is the clear winner.
Ramenfan / May 3, 2010 at 02:16 pm
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House of Groves killed it with their designs and definitely should have taken top spot
chloeororra / May 4, 2010 at 01:23 pm
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Definitely agree with everyone else. House of Groves was a far more complete and well thought out collection that would translate well into ready to wear. There were so many great looks as well as individual pieces to choose from, making it easy to seriously invest in this designer. One has to wonder what the judges were thinking and how the current winner even translates into a fall line for the canadian audience??
Analog4Life / May 4, 2010 at 06:36 pm
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Couldn't disagree any more completely. I find Anastasia's line to be, while still thrilling and exotic, a lot more practical then House of Groves, which is just way too theatric to have any relevance for the Canadian audience. I love the art behind HOG but it has very littel commercial value.
Sheerfaith / May 7, 2010 at 11:09 am
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I have to say Anastasia's collection is a bit tired in my opinion...the crochet/deconstructed arm/legwear has been shown way too many times by Rodarte and its nothing new or innovative.

Love the sleekness of HOG, if you take away the accessories, the pieces are easily transformable to a everyday wardrobe. You could pair the jackets with jeans and make it a modern day wear or dress it up for evening. Plus they look immaculately finished and tailored.
Jennifer / May 10, 2010 at 11:07 am
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I agree - House of Groves was my hands-down fave. Stunning.

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