Boiled, fried, scrambled or poached, there's no denying the egg is one of nature's perfect foods.

And yet, whipping up an omelette recently, I couldn't help but observe the runny consistency - to say nothing of the bland taste later.

According to Brent Preston, the owner and operator of The New Farm, most eggs come from hens that aren't fed or raised in the way nature intended.

"The taste varies with the season," he says, "because they eat different things at different times of the year. The biggest thing is, if they're eating green vegetation, the yolks are much darker yellow than what you'd get in a store. They hold together better and stand up in pan instead of spreading out. The taste is much more intense, and richer. There's a buttery texture in the mouth."

That's the egg I want. So why can't I (or any other Torontonian) find it?